I have officially been to Laos. Last Thursday night (the 18th of December) after my evening class, I boarded an overnight train from Bangkok to Nong Kai. On the train, I sat across from a wonderful Thai woman who was going to visit her mother. Soon, however, a young man from San Francisco traveling on holiday engaged me. After a long conversation and many beers in the dining car, I retired to my upper bunk.
Following an early morning arrival in Nong Kai, we headed to the boarder. Four hours later, I was standing in Laos, 1500 Baht poorer, but one visa richer. We managed to get a Tuk-Tuk into the capital city, Vientiane.
I met up with my French friend, Serge, and he helped me find accommodations. An invitation to a party that evening at the French Cultural Center set my plans but left me plenty of time to explore. I must say that Vientiane is a beautiful city. It is what one imagines when conjuring images of the French settling in Southeast Asia: wide boulevards, colonial architecture, and restrained sensibilities. While not a small city in its own right, compared to the sprawling, congested urbanity of Bangkok, it seems downright quaint. A peaceful calm pervades. Sitting at a quiet outdoor cafe, sipping cappuccino and eating quiche was not just unexpected, but nearly unimaginable the day before.
I wandered around on foot, which is not very difficult given its small, well-laid out city heart. After eating a delicious sandwich of pork pate with radish, cilantro, and chili on French bread, I made my way to the banks of the Mekong River. Watching the sun set through the banana leaves and looking at the far bank, seeing Thailand, was tremendously relaxing.
There are, in fact, many French people living there. The influence is impossible to overlook. French bistros abound, and heavily accented English wafts through the air as readily as the smell of milk being steamed.
Communication with the Laotians living there was very easy; most spoke not only the languages of Thailand and Laos, but also English and French. The Thai and Laotian languages are very similar, but do have many differences. This ensured that I would expend about zero effort to learn it. Everyone was also extremely gracious and eager to talk with me.
Frustratingly, the Laotian monetary unit, the Kip, is tremendously confusing. One Thai Baht is worth about 250 Kip. As you can imagine, the amount of Kip required to do simple commerce is immense. My sandwich cost 5000 Kip. This would be complicated enough, but the denominations looks nearly identical, with hard to identify values. They also come in odd sizes: the nearly worthless 500 Kip note, 1000, 2000, 5000, 10,000, and finally, the 50,000 Kip note.
It was slightly unnerving at first to attend the party at the French Cultural Center, realizing quickly that it was a fairly small community, and that Serge was not actually all that involved with the center. After some conversational dead-ends (isn't that often the way with French people?) I managed to make some interesting friends. One was a very impressive young Laos man who is leaving to study in Paris soon. He speaks English nearly fluently, along with French, Thai, and of course Laos. There was also the very sweet French woman who will be moving to Cambodia at the end of next month, and a group of Australians, some residing, some visiting.
Roxana (the French one) took me for phu in the wee hours of the morning. Phu is like the ubiquitous noodle dish of Thailand, kuay te-ow, but offers slightly different noodles, along with tomatoes and sometimes cabbage. Not as flavorful, it does not offer a true broth, but rather moistens the dish with the liquid used to cook the ingredients a la minute.
The next morning, I rented a 250cc motorcycle and began my journey north towards Vong Vienne. Driving through the changing countryside was an exhilarating experience. From the flat rice paddies of southern Laos into the mountains nearing my destination I drove. Stopping to take pictures, refuel the bike and myself, and seeing what was available in the small towns along the way was an adventure unto itself. And that's not even mentioning the thrill of the ride, increased exponentially as I entered the winding mountain passes.
Tremendously hot at the outset, as I increased altitude and the sun began to dip lower, the temperature dropped dramatically. By the time I reached Vong Vienne, just after sunset, it was decidedly cold. Wishing that I had brought some sort of fleece to compliment my light windbreaker was a good learning experience.
By the time I arrived, it was past dark, so I missed seeing the mountains surrounding it. Taking care of my immediate necessities I found a guesthouse for 20,000 Kip (about $8 U.S.) and went off in search of food. Unfortunately, Vong Vienne is not a great town in my opinion. Partying college students, drugged up backpackers, and generally ignorant travelers have overrun it. The identity of what was probably once a beautiful haven in the mountains has been replaced by one where finding traditional food is the exception, not the norm. Familial establishments can't compete with the many restaurants selling buckets of booze and showing 'Friend's on televisions mounted around the pool tables.
I found perhaps the only restaurant in my area that actually had some Laotian people in it and sat down. A group of farang beckoned me over, and luckily, they were likeminded. We had an enjoyable meal together, exchanging life information, and generally lamenting the state of the town. My guesthouse was quiet and I managed to sleep soundly if not for an extended length of time.
Intending to get started so that I would have plenty of time to stop along the way, I woke up early. Apparently the best laid plans of mice and men can be thwarted by a dead battery. The motorcycle would not start. Unfortunately, because of the early hour, I had to wait for the mechanic to open his doors before I could swap the battery out. That done, and the spark plug drained, I was once again on my way.
The 150-km return trip to Vientiane was actually a lot of fun. Mostly downhill, there was no traffic, and the sun hadn’t risen to its blazing pinnacle. I returned the motorcycle, though, of course not without an embarrassing attempt to drive it up and over a curb (in the center of Vientiane mind you). It seemed like a good idea to try taking a bus across the boarder so I found the station and got a ticket with 15 minutes before it left. This time going through customs went much more smoothly and I was in Nong Kai with plenty of time to spare.
My sense of relief at being again surrounded by something closer to what I have grown accustomed to was surprising. A medium sized boarder city, it has plenty to offer. From shopping and eating to visiting wats, I could easily spend two days here. Seeing the cuisine of Isaan collide with the traditional Laotian cuisine was interesting. Here was the Kuay Te-ow that I was familiar with, but seasoned with shrimp paste and a different chili blend. First things first though, I changed money and bought a kaa-fee buulon yen within two minutes of having Baht in hand. A dense, dark coffee left to steep for time unknown is mixed with sweetened condensed milk and canned milk, then poured over ice. It’s heavenly.
On the train, I made friends with a pair of Thai gentlemen. They live in Ayuttya, the previous capital of Thailand. It lies about 70 kilometers north of Bangkok. One of the gentlemen was a professor at the University, and he spoke English fairly well. The other, a jolly fat man, sells antiques there and owns another store in Luaprabong, Laos. Daang Moh (Watermelon) speaks virtually no English, but between my Thai and his friend's translations, we were all having a great time. The beer and whiskey may have helped a little too.
As the dining car closed, Daang Moh invited me to come to Ayuttya. He wanted to show me around the city. Of course seeing as that was a good four hours away, it seemed like a brilliant idea, and I readily agreed. Returning to my bunk, I made certain to set my alarm.
While the train was running an hour behind schedule, I had no way of knowing this, and was constantly getting up to try to ascertain our position. Needless to say, it wasn't the best night's sleep ever. Finally, at 5:00 a.m., the train arrived at Ayuttya, and I stumbled off. I was greatly relieved to find my new friends on the platform waiting for me. We secured a Tuk-Tuk to take Suchart home and Daang Moh and myself to his antique store.
Daang Moh's store is rather impressive, and he is obviously tremendously proud of what he has. Artifacts and pieces range from the commonplace to truly ornate religious pieces several hundred years old, and hail from all over Thailand and Laos. He showed me many things and with the help of a book, introduced me to the different periods of art and culture in the Chang Mai region.
We also discussed the new house he has just completed in Luaprabong. He had many architectural books showcasing styles throughout the region and years. Of course the invitation to accompany him to see his home was extended, and I look forward to having the opportunity to take him up on the offer.
We ate breakfast at his mother's restaurant. Truly, the adage about a fat man delivering you to great food can be true. His mother is a fantastic cook. It is a fun little restaurant overlooking the Chao Praya River as it runs through Ayuttya, making the central area an island.
As the main attractions to visiting tourists are the temple ruins, he made certain that I was properly introduced to those. Obviously a once thriving center of wealth and prestige, the city is strewn with the remnants a flourishing and expansive civilization. Founded in 1350, it was one of the most populous cities in the world when it was destroyed by the Burmese army in 1767.
Making sure that I wanted for nothing in the way of hospitality, he took me to his favorite massage parlor, and we had some amazing Thai massages. Thai massages are great. They are much more interactive than western massages with more personal movement. Twisting, turning, and a slight amount of pain all lead to deep tissue work and a great feeling at the end of it all. Because they are such a big part of the culture, parlors are everywhere and very cheap.
Refreshed, it was time to eat again. That evening one of Daang Moh's friends met us and we went to a large open-air restaurant serving food from Isaan (the northeast region of Thailand). Daang Moh's friend, Jason, speaks English pretty well, so that eased some of the pressure of communication. The food was delicious, and I was introduced to some new things including deep-fried chicken knee cartilage (not unpleasantly chewy) with a pickled onion slaw and shredded, fried catfish. Whisky, beer, and ribald conversation solidified the new friendships.
As night had long since fallen and the day had been more than full, they accompanied me to the train station and we bid our farewells. 15 Baht to get back to my home station really can't be beat. After stopping to say hello to my neighborhood friends, I returned home, weary but satisfied with my trip.
P.S.I had planned on including my Christmas celebration in this post, but am finding that to be unlikely. It's late, and I must work tomorrow. That, I'm afraid will have to wait for a bit. Good night, and Happy Holidays to one and all.
12.25.2008
12.13.2008
Thanksgiving, king kong, laa Laos
Thanksgiving has come and gone in the United States. I have taken on a teaching job Tuesday and Thursday evenings, so I was supposed to work that night. My class, however, was canceled that evening, but not before I had traveled to Siam Center. Since this is the hub of the shopping district, with four mega malls in close proximity, I opted to indulge in a Whopper as my celebratory meal, followed by my first movie here in Thailand. The Burger King experience was not quite the same as being home for the holiday, but it did provide a note of familiarity.
My evening class has been going well. I am teaching 14 adults who work at the University bookstore. Unfortunately, the classes are relegated to a shoebox-sized room dominated by a conference table. There are really no opportunities for student movement and interaction amongst themselves is limited because of this. This seriously hampers the effectiveness of our time together. Despite this, I think that they are getting something out of the experience. I find that playfulness and minimal traditional teaching is what is really wanted from me.
They are a fun group, and we have started to come together as a class. While I certainly don't think I'll be friends with any of them in the near future, it has been a valuable experience. Seeing adult Thais who have a desire to learn English in a group setting is very different from my cobbled together English language experiences with individuals. Seeing the group dynamic change from shy and reserved to comfortable and outgoing his been rewarding, and I am less of an outsider now. The level of the English that the group has is generally low, but together they can communicate quite effectively. Again, their ability to read far suppases their ability to speak and listen to the language. Mostly, we do things that are immediately applicable to their jobs, but general conversation skills are also very important.
This job has also exposed me more to Siam Center. Being in that area of the city is so vastly different from anywhere else. It could be any major shopping mall in any county in the world. They affluence and posturing are pervasive. Salvatore Ferragamo, Christian Dior, and Mazerati all have shops in Siam Paragon. It seems MBK offers whatever necessity you could possibly imagine. Outdoor sitting areas with intricate fountains, young Thais eating McDonalds and licking DQ cones, and beautiful architecture make it easy to forget that this is an emerging country.
They sky train that offers a backdrop to this scene can't be afforded by the majority of people in the city. And while many of these Thais spend hours a week here, that is all most are doing, spending time. An actual shopping excursion is a very special affair. Much of this is a facade, a service offered to entice the farang. Here it succeeds. Everywhere one looks at these malls are farang scooping up the commodities, cheap by their standards. Jewelry for bargain prices, designer dress shirts for $20, even the largest aquarium in South East Asia can be seen for $7.
Right around Thanksgiving, a royalist group took control of the two International Airports in Bangkok. They held control for 10 days, until they achieved their goal of having the appointed Prime Minister removed from power. This action stranded an estimated half million visiting tourists, and effectively shut down much of Thailand's economy. The orchid industry alone lost $10 million dollars a day through its inability to export. The tourism industry, which affects every level of the economy here is expected to feel repurcusions for years to come. They are estimating a loss of 4.5 billion dollars next year just in tourist spending.
These demonstrations were not a direct threat to farang and from an outsider's perspective, daily life continues with nary a change. There was violence, however, with grenade explosions killing 3 and injuring dozens. The colors of red and yellow have taken on an all encompassing affiliation with the two opposing factions. While it is rarely openly discussed with me, that does not hide the tension simmering beneath the surface.
And to be sure, it is a tense time for Thailand. What hangs in the balance is a huge step away from democracy. The PAD (People's Alliance for Democracy) has succeeded in removing three appointed Prime Ministers chosen by the popularly elected PPP (People's Populist Party) over the last three years. The most common name to hear when discussing this issue is that of Taksin, the exiled former Prime Minister who attempted to privatize many of the nation's infrastructure services. While corruption is rampant in both parties, it is the wish of the PAD to remove voting power from the lower class and impoversed country populous. They desire a return to a royally selected, wealthy ruling class.
Their support seems to have waned slightly do the events at the airport, but elections will be held in Parliament this Monday. There are reports that they may have enough support this time to appoint someone more to their liking, and are already threatening similar guerilla tactics if that does not happen. I, along with my host country, anxiously await the outcome of this new election.
The King of Thailand is the longest serving Monarch in the world. His birthday last Friday is a joyous affair for the country. Perhaps tellingly, he did not address the nation on Thursday, reportedly due to illness. This is the first time in history that he has failed to make that address. The Economist has been covering this with its own opinions, some of which have caused the magazine to have its distribution here suspended following a pair of articles (article1, article2). There will be a rebuttal issued this week by the Thai Foreign Ministry.
I continue to apply myself to learning the language. To this end, I went to the weekend market last weekend and found some childrens' books and a very good English-Thai,Thai-English dictionary. Honestly, I have yet to truly invest myself in any of them. Every weekend, however, I spend several hours a day teaching my friend English and working on my Thai. Last Friday, she invited me to join a group of friends for lunch. We had a hot-pot meal at a local shopping center, peppered with language lessons and laughs. The most interesting Thai word I was already familiar with: king kong means gorilla. I have been unable to definitively track down the etymology of the phrase/word, so if anyone can help, I'd appreciate it. Idle curiosity I guess...
On a purely fact finding mission (OK, that's not quite true), I went to see the movie Ong Bok 2. If you're unfamiliar with the original Ong Bok, rest assured that it's a fine piece of cinema. This seemingly had absolutely nothing to do with the first, sharing only the star, but Tony Jaa again delivered. Muai Thai inspired fight coreography, brilliant weapons work, amazing stunts, and a plot that was at least cohesive made this a thouroughly enjoyable experience. Honestly one of the most intense martial arts movies I've seen in a very long time. I just wished they would have called it "The Next Movie That Tony Jaa Absolutely Kicks Ass and Does Amazing Stuff In" to avoid confusion.
I am also looking forward to visiting Laos this coming weekend. While I have a year visa, I must leave the country every three months to keep it active. This also affords me the opportunity to take a break from the city, which can be taxing. I will board a train on Thursday after my night class. It will travel north from the city to Nong Kai, the Thai boarder city. It will take about 10 hours. My return trip begins on Sunday night. I hope that the ride affords me the opportunity to see some of the Issarn countryside.
Upon arrival in Nong Kai, I will take a bus to Vientiane, the capital of Laos. This is very near to Nong Kai. In a pleasant turn of events, I had met a French man who works for an NGO in Laos a few weeks ago. He lived in Vietnam for seven years and has lived in Laos for the past two. He asked me a question on the ferry as I headed back home after work, and we struck up a conversation. I will be meeting him on Friday upon my arrival, and he is finding a hotel for my first night. I might rent a motorbike and leave the city on Saturday, but I have no definite plans.
This adventure has me excited and nervous again. It offers a million small new things, in an unfamiliar land. A second class sleeper on a Thai train, a trip over a boarder on the ground, and a new stamp in my passport, just to name a few.
My evening class has been going well. I am teaching 14 adults who work at the University bookstore. Unfortunately, the classes are relegated to a shoebox-sized room dominated by a conference table. There are really no opportunities for student movement and interaction amongst themselves is limited because of this. This seriously hampers the effectiveness of our time together. Despite this, I think that they are getting something out of the experience. I find that playfulness and minimal traditional teaching is what is really wanted from me.
They are a fun group, and we have started to come together as a class. While I certainly don't think I'll be friends with any of them in the near future, it has been a valuable experience. Seeing adult Thais who have a desire to learn English in a group setting is very different from my cobbled together English language experiences with individuals. Seeing the group dynamic change from shy and reserved to comfortable and outgoing his been rewarding, and I am less of an outsider now. The level of the English that the group has is generally low, but together they can communicate quite effectively. Again, their ability to read far suppases their ability to speak and listen to the language. Mostly, we do things that are immediately applicable to their jobs, but general conversation skills are also very important.
This job has also exposed me more to Siam Center. Being in that area of the city is so vastly different from anywhere else. It could be any major shopping mall in any county in the world. They affluence and posturing are pervasive. Salvatore Ferragamo, Christian Dior, and Mazerati all have shops in Siam Paragon. It seems MBK offers whatever necessity you could possibly imagine. Outdoor sitting areas with intricate fountains, young Thais eating McDonalds and licking DQ cones, and beautiful architecture make it easy to forget that this is an emerging country.
They sky train that offers a backdrop to this scene can't be afforded by the majority of people in the city. And while many of these Thais spend hours a week here, that is all most are doing, spending time. An actual shopping excursion is a very special affair. Much of this is a facade, a service offered to entice the farang. Here it succeeds. Everywhere one looks at these malls are farang scooping up the commodities, cheap by their standards. Jewelry for bargain prices, designer dress shirts for $20, even the largest aquarium in South East Asia can be seen for $7.
Right around Thanksgiving, a royalist group took control of the two International Airports in Bangkok. They held control for 10 days, until they achieved their goal of having the appointed Prime Minister removed from power. This action stranded an estimated half million visiting tourists, and effectively shut down much of Thailand's economy. The orchid industry alone lost $10 million dollars a day through its inability to export. The tourism industry, which affects every level of the economy here is expected to feel repurcusions for years to come. They are estimating a loss of 4.5 billion dollars next year just in tourist spending.
These demonstrations were not a direct threat to farang and from an outsider's perspective, daily life continues with nary a change. There was violence, however, with grenade explosions killing 3 and injuring dozens. The colors of red and yellow have taken on an all encompassing affiliation with the two opposing factions. While it is rarely openly discussed with me, that does not hide the tension simmering beneath the surface.
And to be sure, it is a tense time for Thailand. What hangs in the balance is a huge step away from democracy. The PAD (People's Alliance for Democracy) has succeeded in removing three appointed Prime Ministers chosen by the popularly elected PPP (People's Populist Party) over the last three years. The most common name to hear when discussing this issue is that of Taksin, the exiled former Prime Minister who attempted to privatize many of the nation's infrastructure services. While corruption is rampant in both parties, it is the wish of the PAD to remove voting power from the lower class and impoversed country populous. They desire a return to a royally selected, wealthy ruling class.
Their support seems to have waned slightly do the events at the airport, but elections will be held in Parliament this Monday. There are reports that they may have enough support this time to appoint someone more to their liking, and are already threatening similar guerilla tactics if that does not happen. I, along with my host country, anxiously await the outcome of this new election.
The King of Thailand is the longest serving Monarch in the world. His birthday last Friday is a joyous affair for the country. Perhaps tellingly, he did not address the nation on Thursday, reportedly due to illness. This is the first time in history that he has failed to make that address. The Economist has been covering this with its own opinions, some of which have caused the magazine to have its distribution here suspended following a pair of articles (article1, article2). There will be a rebuttal issued this week by the Thai Foreign Ministry.
I continue to apply myself to learning the language. To this end, I went to the weekend market last weekend and found some childrens' books and a very good English-Thai,Thai-English dictionary. Honestly, I have yet to truly invest myself in any of them. Every weekend, however, I spend several hours a day teaching my friend English and working on my Thai. Last Friday, she invited me to join a group of friends for lunch. We had a hot-pot meal at a local shopping center, peppered with language lessons and laughs. The most interesting Thai word I was already familiar with: king kong means gorilla. I have been unable to definitively track down the etymology of the phrase/word, so if anyone can help, I'd appreciate it. Idle curiosity I guess...
On a purely fact finding mission (OK, that's not quite true), I went to see the movie Ong Bok 2. If you're unfamiliar with the original Ong Bok, rest assured that it's a fine piece of cinema. This seemingly had absolutely nothing to do with the first, sharing only the star, but Tony Jaa again delivered. Muai Thai inspired fight coreography, brilliant weapons work, amazing stunts, and a plot that was at least cohesive made this a thouroughly enjoyable experience. Honestly one of the most intense martial arts movies I've seen in a very long time. I just wished they would have called it "The Next Movie That Tony Jaa Absolutely Kicks Ass and Does Amazing Stuff In" to avoid confusion.
I am also looking forward to visiting Laos this coming weekend. While I have a year visa, I must leave the country every three months to keep it active. This also affords me the opportunity to take a break from the city, which can be taxing. I will board a train on Thursday after my night class. It will travel north from the city to Nong Kai, the Thai boarder city. It will take about 10 hours. My return trip begins on Sunday night. I hope that the ride affords me the opportunity to see some of the Issarn countryside.
Upon arrival in Nong Kai, I will take a bus to Vientiane, the capital of Laos. This is very near to Nong Kai. In a pleasant turn of events, I had met a French man who works for an NGO in Laos a few weeks ago. He lived in Vietnam for seven years and has lived in Laos for the past two. He asked me a question on the ferry as I headed back home after work, and we struck up a conversation. I will be meeting him on Friday upon my arrival, and he is finding a hotel for my first night. I might rent a motorbike and leave the city on Saturday, but I have no definite plans.
This adventure has me excited and nervous again. It offers a million small new things, in an unfamiliar land. A second class sleeper on a Thai train, a trip over a boarder on the ground, and a new stamp in my passport, just to name a few.
11.16.2008
Mahk ruk Thai
A light rain falls steadily outside, and inside, Modest Mouse issues from my computer. It's a lazy Sunday afternoon here. I have a little work to do for school tomorrow, but that shouldn't take long. It's more general organization than anything else. This evening I will head south on the river to join some new friends in playing and watching Thai chess.
Last Sunday, after book shopping near Kao San, I wandered aimlessly in search of Indian food. I found much to take pictures of, and stumbled upon a beautiful little park. Seeing the entrance to a flower market, I decided to explore and came across a group of men in the midst of a warehouse shopping center playing a game. I stopped to watch, and someone offered me a chair. It seemed to be something like chess, and for the most part, I was able to pick up on the rules from watching. When the game ended, I clarified the points I was unclear of, and they immediately threw me into the game.
At some point, they started opening big beers. These they poured into a small plastic mug filled with ice. It was passed around and topped up as necessary. Alternating between playing and watching, I can say that I understand the game fairly well. The difficulty comes in my affinity for the chess that I'm familiar with and the change in strategy required for this version.
In Thai chess, the Rooks and Knights move the same. Pawns also move the same, but the entire line starts the game one row forward. All other pieces move only space at a time. There is one 'Bishop.' In place of the Queen, there are two pieces that can move in any direction forward, but only on the diagonal backward. They can never move sideways or straight back. Once the Pawns cross the third row threshold on the opponents side, they are flipped over and become 'Bishops.' Because everything only moves one space, the game is more plodding, and not as spread out. The general strategy seems to be to create a general block protecting the King and rolling forward en mass across the board.
After many hours and several beers, I took my leave, promising to return. I continued my search for delicious Indian food. While Thai food is available and plentiful at any hour of the day, it seems that the Indian population closes shop much earlier. It was just past eight o'clock and I had difficulty finding an open establishment. Ultimately, it turned out to be overprice (relatively speaking) and not particularly impressive.
Wednesday evening was Loi Krathong, an annual river festival all across Thailand. Variously reported to be a celebration for the river god, a sending off of bad omens and habits, and a joining of couples ceremony. It involves setting adrift beautiful round rafts made of banana tree trunk cross sections (which float) and banana leaves adorned with flowers and candles. These rafts, called Krathong (pronounced with the sound somewhere between k and g that is important to master if you wish to speak much Thai), range from the small and simple to very intricate affairs.
Along with the floating of the boats is a subdued carnival atmosphere. There are ornate floats on the river, lit up to excess. At certain points along the Chao Praya, there are great food malls, sculptures and pieces of art, traditional dance, and stages with music. The influx of people to small areas that are not designed to handle those kinds of crowds was exciting for a short period, but we did not linger long.
The King's sister had passed away this past January. Because of the importance of the Princess to Thailand, her funeral arrangements have been long in the making. Friday marked the beginning of the official ceremony. Everyone, and I do mean everyone, has been wearing black or white since Friday. This has been accompanied by what one would expect of a national grieving period. While the ceremony will continue until Wednesday, people may begin to dress in a less somber tone tomorrow.
Yesterday, I went to Chinatown. With no specific agenda, I opted to walk through the alley markets. These are cramped, and generally full of cheap, poorly made products. They teem with people, and once you're in, forget a quick escape. As the hand-trucks laden with goods and audacious people on motorbikes barrel through, it is best to pay attention, lest your foot end up under a wheel. I did, however, manage to find some very cheap materials for school. Red pens, organizing clips, whiteboard markers, and clear sleeves to organize papers at these prices mean that I'll probably be returning when I need a fresh supply.
Overall, I truly enjoy Chinatown. While Bangkok in general has a no lack of energy, there it is slightly different. The language, foodstuffs, and architecture change from the city at large. From a western viewpoint, the change may not be as stark a contrast as say in New York or San Francisco. That said, the brief time that I've been here has already started to make the differentiation clear.
At the vendors and restaurants, familiar equipment is modified, or merely serves a slightly different purpose. The woks are at a much higher temperature, requiring faster agitation and in general more movement. The omnipresent noodle cart, with its segmented heated compartment for quick blanching noodles and keeping broth warm, is still a mainstay. Processed meat balls and sausages along with the various last minute seasonings that the cook requires are still there. What changes are the available meats and noodles. Duck, not a staple selection outside of Chinatown, shares center stage with pork. The noodles also change. Here the wheat/egg noodle is more prevalent. Wide flat noodles, and thicker, extruded noodles can be found alongside the standard rice noodles. At the table, soy sauce stands in for fish sauce.
While the Chinese here fry with the same gusto as the Thais, it is often with more starch involved. Crunchy patties of taro, peanut, or corn replace the leavened doughnut like concoctions. Fried tofu with its unique texture is more common than unbreaded fish mash with chili. It is here that you see the fried spring rolls. Outside of Chinatown, spring roll wrappers seldom appear. Here, it seems that anyone with a wok full of oil would be blasphemous not to have some type of roll on offer.
The steam table that generally produces kaa-fae bulaat (long time coffee) is covered in a thin cloth atop which taro paste steams to form 'crepes.' These are folded and rolled in coconut shavings or crushed peanuts. Peanuts also make an appearance in the form of bars, bound with something akin to stiff marshmallow. These are not quite as sweet as their western counterparts, and topped with cilantro leaves.
After meandering and eating to a near bursting point, I hopped a motorbike taxi to my school. There, I dropped off my newly acquired goodies. Returning to foot travel, I walked to settle my stomach. As if by chance, I found myself once again by the flower market.
Though it took some searching, I did once again arrive at the spot from the previous Sunday. And lo and behold, there was the same group of men, engaged in what appears to be their weekend activity. They were happy to see me, and I again fell into watching and playing.
While I can't say that I've won a game yet, I have come close a few times. It often comes down to a critical mistake that I don't see until it is too late and the tide changes quickly. They play for hours on end, as I must imagine they've been doing for a while, so I don't feel too bad. As beer tends to loosen tongues, we start joking and it has been great for me to practice my Thai with them. That alone would make it tremendously worthwhile.
I still rely on my phrase book as my vocabulary is nowhere near large enough, but my sentence structure is coming along, as is my pronunciation. Fortunately, while Thai has a very different structure, it's rather grammatically simple. There are no tenses, and much is left to inference. For example, the sentence "I played Thai chess yesterday," can, at it’s simplest, be "mahk ruk Thai len meu-a whan," or "Thai chess play yesterday." The 'I' is inferred and there is no need to conjugate 'play.'
There are also no definers and the noun does not change to become plural. 'A,' 'an,' and 'the' simply don't exist. There is also no word for 'be.' 'Ben' joins nouns and pronouns, but not nouns and adjectives. 'Pom ben ah-jahn.' 'I teacher.'
I am getting better at seeing the words in English and imagining how it will be pronounced in Thai. The sooner I can let go of this crutch, though, the better. As such, I am trying to teach myself to read and write in Thai. Ultimately, it will make everything come together faster, but it's not easy. Not surprisingly, the writing system is vastly different than anything I've ever come across. The consonants are pronounced differently depending on their position in the word. Additionally, the way that vowels are written depends on what they are paired with, and they may appear before, after, above, below, or actually be separated by the consonants. Throw in the tonal markers, and it can be pretty overwhelming. The light at the end of the tunnel is that it is a phonetic language. So once I understand it, how it's written is how it's pronounced. Oh sweet consolation!
Unfortunately, I’ve got other things to do, and I’ve been at this for while. On that note, I take my leave.
Last Sunday, after book shopping near Kao San, I wandered aimlessly in search of Indian food. I found much to take pictures of, and stumbled upon a beautiful little park. Seeing the entrance to a flower market, I decided to explore and came across a group of men in the midst of a warehouse shopping center playing a game. I stopped to watch, and someone offered me a chair. It seemed to be something like chess, and for the most part, I was able to pick up on the rules from watching. When the game ended, I clarified the points I was unclear of, and they immediately threw me into the game.
At some point, they started opening big beers. These they poured into a small plastic mug filled with ice. It was passed around and topped up as necessary. Alternating between playing and watching, I can say that I understand the game fairly well. The difficulty comes in my affinity for the chess that I'm familiar with and the change in strategy required for this version.
In Thai chess, the Rooks and Knights move the same. Pawns also move the same, but the entire line starts the game one row forward. All other pieces move only space at a time. There is one 'Bishop.' In place of the Queen, there are two pieces that can move in any direction forward, but only on the diagonal backward. They can never move sideways or straight back. Once the Pawns cross the third row threshold on the opponents side, they are flipped over and become 'Bishops.' Because everything only moves one space, the game is more plodding, and not as spread out. The general strategy seems to be to create a general block protecting the King and rolling forward en mass across the board.
After many hours and several beers, I took my leave, promising to return. I continued my search for delicious Indian food. While Thai food is available and plentiful at any hour of the day, it seems that the Indian population closes shop much earlier. It was just past eight o'clock and I had difficulty finding an open establishment. Ultimately, it turned out to be overprice (relatively speaking) and not particularly impressive.
Wednesday evening was Loi Krathong, an annual river festival all across Thailand. Variously reported to be a celebration for the river god, a sending off of bad omens and habits, and a joining of couples ceremony. It involves setting adrift beautiful round rafts made of banana tree trunk cross sections (which float) and banana leaves adorned with flowers and candles. These rafts, called Krathong (pronounced with the sound somewhere between k and g that is important to master if you wish to speak much Thai), range from the small and simple to very intricate affairs.
Along with the floating of the boats is a subdued carnival atmosphere. There are ornate floats on the river, lit up to excess. At certain points along the Chao Praya, there are great food malls, sculptures and pieces of art, traditional dance, and stages with music. The influx of people to small areas that are not designed to handle those kinds of crowds was exciting for a short period, but we did not linger long.
The King's sister had passed away this past January. Because of the importance of the Princess to Thailand, her funeral arrangements have been long in the making. Friday marked the beginning of the official ceremony. Everyone, and I do mean everyone, has been wearing black or white since Friday. This has been accompanied by what one would expect of a national grieving period. While the ceremony will continue until Wednesday, people may begin to dress in a less somber tone tomorrow.
Yesterday, I went to Chinatown. With no specific agenda, I opted to walk through the alley markets. These are cramped, and generally full of cheap, poorly made products. They teem with people, and once you're in, forget a quick escape. As the hand-trucks laden with goods and audacious people on motorbikes barrel through, it is best to pay attention, lest your foot end up under a wheel. I did, however, manage to find some very cheap materials for school. Red pens, organizing clips, whiteboard markers, and clear sleeves to organize papers at these prices mean that I'll probably be returning when I need a fresh supply.
Overall, I truly enjoy Chinatown. While Bangkok in general has a no lack of energy, there it is slightly different. The language, foodstuffs, and architecture change from the city at large. From a western viewpoint, the change may not be as stark a contrast as say in New York or San Francisco. That said, the brief time that I've been here has already started to make the differentiation clear.
At the vendors and restaurants, familiar equipment is modified, or merely serves a slightly different purpose. The woks are at a much higher temperature, requiring faster agitation and in general more movement. The omnipresent noodle cart, with its segmented heated compartment for quick blanching noodles and keeping broth warm, is still a mainstay. Processed meat balls and sausages along with the various last minute seasonings that the cook requires are still there. What changes are the available meats and noodles. Duck, not a staple selection outside of Chinatown, shares center stage with pork. The noodles also change. Here the wheat/egg noodle is more prevalent. Wide flat noodles, and thicker, extruded noodles can be found alongside the standard rice noodles. At the table, soy sauce stands in for fish sauce.
While the Chinese here fry with the same gusto as the Thais, it is often with more starch involved. Crunchy patties of taro, peanut, or corn replace the leavened doughnut like concoctions. Fried tofu with its unique texture is more common than unbreaded fish mash with chili. It is here that you see the fried spring rolls. Outside of Chinatown, spring roll wrappers seldom appear. Here, it seems that anyone with a wok full of oil would be blasphemous not to have some type of roll on offer.
The steam table that generally produces kaa-fae bulaat (long time coffee) is covered in a thin cloth atop which taro paste steams to form 'crepes.' These are folded and rolled in coconut shavings or crushed peanuts. Peanuts also make an appearance in the form of bars, bound with something akin to stiff marshmallow. These are not quite as sweet as their western counterparts, and topped with cilantro leaves.
After meandering and eating to a near bursting point, I hopped a motorbike taxi to my school. There, I dropped off my newly acquired goodies. Returning to foot travel, I walked to settle my stomach. As if by chance, I found myself once again by the flower market.
Though it took some searching, I did once again arrive at the spot from the previous Sunday. And lo and behold, there was the same group of men, engaged in what appears to be their weekend activity. They were happy to see me, and I again fell into watching and playing.
While I can't say that I've won a game yet, I have come close a few times. It often comes down to a critical mistake that I don't see until it is too late and the tide changes quickly. They play for hours on end, as I must imagine they've been doing for a while, so I don't feel too bad. As beer tends to loosen tongues, we start joking and it has been great for me to practice my Thai with them. That alone would make it tremendously worthwhile.
I still rely on my phrase book as my vocabulary is nowhere near large enough, but my sentence structure is coming along, as is my pronunciation. Fortunately, while Thai has a very different structure, it's rather grammatically simple. There are no tenses, and much is left to inference. For example, the sentence "I played Thai chess yesterday," can, at it’s simplest, be "mahk ruk Thai len meu-a whan," or "Thai chess play yesterday." The 'I' is inferred and there is no need to conjugate 'play.'
There are also no definers and the noun does not change to become plural. 'A,' 'an,' and 'the' simply don't exist. There is also no word for 'be.' 'Ben' joins nouns and pronouns, but not nouns and adjectives. 'Pom ben ah-jahn.' 'I teacher.'
I am getting better at seeing the words in English and imagining how it will be pronounced in Thai. The sooner I can let go of this crutch, though, the better. As such, I am trying to teach myself to read and write in Thai. Ultimately, it will make everything come together faster, but it's not easy. Not surprisingly, the writing system is vastly different than anything I've ever come across. The consonants are pronounced differently depending on their position in the word. Additionally, the way that vowels are written depends on what they are paired with, and they may appear before, after, above, below, or actually be separated by the consonants. Throw in the tonal markers, and it can be pretty overwhelming. The light at the end of the tunnel is that it is a phonetic language. So once I understand it, how it's written is how it's pronounced. Oh sweet consolation!
Unfortunately, I’ve got other things to do, and I’ve been at this for while. On that note, I take my leave.
11.08.2008
toh-ra-sap hak laa-ou
There was a mini reunion last night of TEFL trainees. Many people from the course came into Bangkok and the contingent living here met up with them outside of Center World, the largest mall in Southeast Asia. They set up a giant beer garden there on the weekends during the cool season. Last night they had two stages set up, one apparently sponsored by Singha beer, the other by it's rival, Chang. We ended up in the Chang camp, with two tables in front of the stage. The three liter beer towers stood proudly in the center of each.
When we arrived, they were setting up the stage, and I had no idea what we were in for. What followed was one of those cross-cultural things that I don't fully understand. One member of the band wore a luchador mask. Another, some sort of white mask that would have worked equally well for Halloween or a bank robbery. The lead guitarist wore high top trainers, tight jeans, and a Beatles' shirt. The second guitarist in a collared shirt and tie looked and acted as though he had no idea that he was in a band, let alone this one.
The musical progression began with what I can only describe as death metal, rolling into catchy pop followed by balladic melodies, and finally coming full circle back to the metal. This was interspersed with costume changes, an aerosol can flame thrower display, and some of the hardest to contextualize stage antics I can ever recall seeing. They also managed to disseminate to the crowd playpen balls, balloons, sparklers, and cheap candy.
The beer helped immensely with the entertainment factor.
As things wound down we went in search of transportation to Kao San road. Where else can a large group of white travelers go to on a Friday night but to the falang carnival? I'm getting better and better at negotiating for transportation costs and find it a happy little diversion.
I must admit, there are actually positives about Kao San. First of all, it is a good place to find used English language books. You can trade in books for half of the original price and they are pretty reasonable, with a fair selection. Also, aside from the fact that there is also more skin on display there than anywhere else in Bangkok that you're not paying to see, there is amazing falafel to be had!
At either end of the short street are stationed falafel stands, like sentries of old. They do little to guard against the onslaught of Tuk-Tuk drivers, walking peddlers, suit salesmen, or the ubiquitous lip smacks of ping-pong show solicitors, however. While their observational and security roles are questionable, the public service that they offer is undeniable. They provide a welcome change of pace from the constant stream of noodles, rice, and skewered meats flowing into my gullet.
Mung bean sprouts are plentiful here. Tomatoes are common in the papaya salad. Cucumbers and onions play an important role in many a meal. Cabbage, pickled and fresh, can be found easily within two blocks of wherever you find yourself. The Thais are also not strangers to deep-frying as evidenced at many of the vendor carts. But the combination of chickpea and fava bean mash deep fried and stuffed into a pita slathered with hummus is certainly not from around these parts.
Douse it with tahini and a very different type of hot sauce. Load it with your choice of toppings (there are so many to choose from: corn with onion, cucumber with dill, cabbage and carrot slaw to name but a few). Dig in, and revel in the resultant mess.
In fact, there is a large population of Indian nationals here in Bangkok. My school is actually strategically located between the two areas with the highest density. Perhaps tomorrow will be a day to further investigate. As one of my closest friends from training is in town, I might abscond with her for the day to show her the sights. A food loving co-conspirator is always a welcome addition.
Today, I had to go in search of a cheap replacement phone. Last night, packed into a Tuk-Tuk with four others, my phone fell out my pocket and onto the road. By the time we had managed to get back to it, it had seen the business side of too many tires to be salvageable. Try as I might to roll with things in an upbeat manner, sometimes it's very hard. This was one of those times. I returned home in a rather foul mood.
In a pleasant turn of events, Sarah was on Facebook. We chatted for a while before exhaustion finally set in. The unburdened sleep I enjoyed, as well as waking to face the new day optimistically, can only be attributed to her. I did manage to find a relatively cheap phone, and have loaded most of my lost contacts from other people's phones. There are some people that I'm sure I will lose touch with because of this, but at this point I'd rather not dwell on it.
Currently eating delicious fruit that I bought last weekend and waiting for the storm to clear outside, I will take my leave. I have lessons to prepare for and Thai to study. Until next time, be well.
When we arrived, they were setting up the stage, and I had no idea what we were in for. What followed was one of those cross-cultural things that I don't fully understand. One member of the band wore a luchador mask. Another, some sort of white mask that would have worked equally well for Halloween or a bank robbery. The lead guitarist wore high top trainers, tight jeans, and a Beatles' shirt. The second guitarist in a collared shirt and tie looked and acted as though he had no idea that he was in a band, let alone this one.
The musical progression began with what I can only describe as death metal, rolling into catchy pop followed by balladic melodies, and finally coming full circle back to the metal. This was interspersed with costume changes, an aerosol can flame thrower display, and some of the hardest to contextualize stage antics I can ever recall seeing. They also managed to disseminate to the crowd playpen balls, balloons, sparklers, and cheap candy.
The beer helped immensely with the entertainment factor.
As things wound down we went in search of transportation to Kao San road. Where else can a large group of white travelers go to on a Friday night but to the falang carnival? I'm getting better and better at negotiating for transportation costs and find it a happy little diversion.
I must admit, there are actually positives about Kao San. First of all, it is a good place to find used English language books. You can trade in books for half of the original price and they are pretty reasonable, with a fair selection. Also, aside from the fact that there is also more skin on display there than anywhere else in Bangkok that you're not paying to see, there is amazing falafel to be had!
At either end of the short street are stationed falafel stands, like sentries of old. They do little to guard against the onslaught of Tuk-Tuk drivers, walking peddlers, suit salesmen, or the ubiquitous lip smacks of ping-pong show solicitors, however. While their observational and security roles are questionable, the public service that they offer is undeniable. They provide a welcome change of pace from the constant stream of noodles, rice, and skewered meats flowing into my gullet.
Mung bean sprouts are plentiful here. Tomatoes are common in the papaya salad. Cucumbers and onions play an important role in many a meal. Cabbage, pickled and fresh, can be found easily within two blocks of wherever you find yourself. The Thais are also not strangers to deep-frying as evidenced at many of the vendor carts. But the combination of chickpea and fava bean mash deep fried and stuffed into a pita slathered with hummus is certainly not from around these parts.
Douse it with tahini and a very different type of hot sauce. Load it with your choice of toppings (there are so many to choose from: corn with onion, cucumber with dill, cabbage and carrot slaw to name but a few). Dig in, and revel in the resultant mess.
In fact, there is a large population of Indian nationals here in Bangkok. My school is actually strategically located between the two areas with the highest density. Perhaps tomorrow will be a day to further investigate. As one of my closest friends from training is in town, I might abscond with her for the day to show her the sights. A food loving co-conspirator is always a welcome addition.
Today, I had to go in search of a cheap replacement phone. Last night, packed into a Tuk-Tuk with four others, my phone fell out my pocket and onto the road. By the time we had managed to get back to it, it had seen the business side of too many tires to be salvageable. Try as I might to roll with things in an upbeat manner, sometimes it's very hard. This was one of those times. I returned home in a rather foul mood.
In a pleasant turn of events, Sarah was on Facebook. We chatted for a while before exhaustion finally set in. The unburdened sleep I enjoyed, as well as waking to face the new day optimistically, can only be attributed to her. I did manage to find a relatively cheap phone, and have loaded most of my lost contacts from other people's phones. There are some people that I'm sure I will lose touch with because of this, but at this point I'd rather not dwell on it.
Currently eating delicious fruit that I bought last weekend and waiting for the storm to clear outside, I will take my leave. I have lessons to prepare for and Thai to study. Until next time, be well.
11.05.2008
Kor toht
To all that are follow this blog, my apologies. I have been negligent. Writing these posts requires energy, time, and motivation. Some how these haven't seemed to coincide as of late. Please forgive me. Settling in, the establishment of a new routine, and a general malaise have kept me occupied.
But the fact that my laundry froze on the spin cycle frees up time, as well as requiring me to stay up. The tremendous amount of new experiences and thoughts/feelings coupled with the gentle haranguing of friends and family provides the motivation.
I have an apartment. I decided to move into the building that my friends from training are living in. While it would be considered small and sparse by Western standards, the living space is certainly as large as my first Chicago apartment. While that was called an efficiency, this has that place beat hands down:
-A balcony where I can hang my clothes to dry (and a nice view)
-A built in wardrobe, shelf and desk with mirror
-A queen size bed (that was as hard as a rock until the addition of a pad)
-Mini fridge, microwave, TV
-Free Internet
-A one room bathroom/shower (There's a drain in the floor with a shower handle. It even has a 'hot' shower, which is essentially a mini water heater. You get used to the cold shower pretty quickly.)
-A pool
Unfortunately, it requires a commute of about an hour via river ferry every morning and afternoon. Though as far as commutes go, traveling down the middle of the Chao Praya with Bangkok looming on either side as the sun hits it's stride is not too bad. That's as long as there's a seat available and that' there’s not a torrential downpour. Those things do diminish it slightly, but the Thais have been doing this for a while, so who am I to complain?
My school is wonderful. I teach 21 hours every week. It covers four grade levels (11-16 year olds) with class sizes of about 40 students. Each grade is broken up into ten 'levels' based on their overall academic scores. While these may correlate loosely to general interest in school, it doesn't necessarily translate into English ability. The disparity within a given class can be huge.
I see one class twice a week for 50 minutes each time. I also see one class for two periods in a row, but all of the others I see just once a week. Given the huge variety in skill level and lesson plans required, this has been quite a time consuming undertaking. The basic ideas for how to cover the material, and more importantly, keep the students engaged and occupied for the period is taxing in and of itself. The additional requirement of actually grading nearly 800 students' work makes for full days.
Overall, however, I truly enjoy the teaching. Many of my students are tremendously sweet, and no day is dull. The interaction with the students is very rewarding, as is feeling that I'm actually making a difference in their English speaking skills. The polite wais in the hallways and the ever present shouts of 'Mr. Matt! Hello!' as I move through the school put a smile on my face that seems to remain well after I leave.
It seems that my teaching style has sufficiently impressed one of my Thai co-teachers for her to go looking for outside work for me. She approached me today with what seems to be a contact for daily two-hour private lessons with a man for after school. Apparently, he has recently been promoted to a supervisory position and wishes to improve his English. The stated figure is 500 Baht an hour, of which I believe she would like ten percent.
While part time work is a very common practice here for English teachers, this seems like an exceptional offer. I will hopefully set it up tomorrow so that the 'driver' can start picking me up at 3:30 from school. My Thai Madame at work.
I happened to meet a Thai woman who is an American citizen on Friday when I was returning school from lunch. Vanee (my new friend) has lived in Fresno, California for 27 years where she runs a produce stand, bringing farmers’ bounty to the market. She also grows some of her own fruits and vegetables. She comes back to Thailand occasionally to take care of financial issues and see her family. While her English isn't great, she loves me just for being an American who teaches at her Alma Matta. As such, she insisted on taking me out Saturday with her sister to buy fruit and show me a wholesaler.
From what I can tell, Thais love three things above all else: eating, shopping, and haggling. When these three things are combined, look out. The synergy produces some form of Super Thai, less mortal person than mythical creature. I swear I saw these 5'2'' women grow six inches as they cornered a poor Thai Indian girl over the authenticity of some 'Indian made' shirts. 15 minutes later, Vanee had bought three and the girl had somehow managed not to burst into tears. An hour and a half later, Vanee wanted to go get one more.
When I talk about shopping, you may be picturing some quaint open air, street-side vendor. They do have those, lots of them. But they also have more malls than you can imagine. A few are what would be familiar in the West, perhaps a little bit more packed. The majority, however, basically move those street side vendors indoors. A 15 foot by 15 foot space filled with dress pants and slacks. Next to that is another 15 by 15 stall full of belts, or sheets, or polo shirts, or you name it. This goes on nearly infinitely until they have occupied ten stories of a building taking up a city block. Add thousands of people milling about to your mental image, and you start to get an idea of the experience.
Sometimes the floors are segregated by merchandise: electronics on three, men’s wear on five. This can by no means be thought of as the rule of thumb. Even with the 'streets' being numbered, I still find myself wanting a compass, a canteen, and sometimes a machete (maps are fairly useless in this country and the opinions of at least three independent people are required to verify the direction and distance to a desired destination). The shops give out cards dictating their position as if fourth floor, at the intersection of streets 16 and 12, is an address.
This actually comes in tremendously handy though. Shops must be revisited because apparently hiding among the piles of garments lurk seamstresses. Pick out your pants; get measured for inseam and waist, pay, and come back in a half an hour to pick them up, freshly hemmed. Sure, Brooks Brothers doesn't sell rayon/polyester blends, but these babies don't wrinkle. Also, when I sweat through them, they dry in minutes.
The foray into the land of fruit buying with experienced guides was great too. Not only did I pick up some knowledge about the myriad types of papaya here (don't even get me started on mangoes), I was introduced to a segmented, pitless cousin of the longan, and learned proper etiquette for eating on the go. After being induced to try a fresh olive, I mastered the ever-important phrase 'I don't love it.'
While I am certain I could go on and on, it is getting late. I will endeavor to not let so much time elapse between posts in the future. But for now, goodnight.
P.S.: While I was eating lunch yesterday, the television was on in the teacher's area. The Thai teachers turned up the volume for me so that I could hear Barack Obama's acceptance speech. As I sat listening, my throat got tight and tears welled in my eyes. Pride, vindication, joy, and hope for America are emotions that have lain dormant in me for too long. I wished at that moment that I could share it with my fellow countrymen. A new day is dawning.
But the fact that my laundry froze on the spin cycle frees up time, as well as requiring me to stay up. The tremendous amount of new experiences and thoughts/feelings coupled with the gentle haranguing of friends and family provides the motivation.
I have an apartment. I decided to move into the building that my friends from training are living in. While it would be considered small and sparse by Western standards, the living space is certainly as large as my first Chicago apartment. While that was called an efficiency, this has that place beat hands down:
-A balcony where I can hang my clothes to dry (and a nice view)
-A built in wardrobe, shelf and desk with mirror
-A queen size bed (that was as hard as a rock until the addition of a pad)
-Mini fridge, microwave, TV
-Free Internet
-A one room bathroom/shower (There's a drain in the floor with a shower handle. It even has a 'hot' shower, which is essentially a mini water heater. You get used to the cold shower pretty quickly.)
-A pool
Unfortunately, it requires a commute of about an hour via river ferry every morning and afternoon. Though as far as commutes go, traveling down the middle of the Chao Praya with Bangkok looming on either side as the sun hits it's stride is not too bad. That's as long as there's a seat available and that' there’s not a torrential downpour. Those things do diminish it slightly, but the Thais have been doing this for a while, so who am I to complain?
My school is wonderful. I teach 21 hours every week. It covers four grade levels (11-16 year olds) with class sizes of about 40 students. Each grade is broken up into ten 'levels' based on their overall academic scores. While these may correlate loosely to general interest in school, it doesn't necessarily translate into English ability. The disparity within a given class can be huge.
I see one class twice a week for 50 minutes each time. I also see one class for two periods in a row, but all of the others I see just once a week. Given the huge variety in skill level and lesson plans required, this has been quite a time consuming undertaking. The basic ideas for how to cover the material, and more importantly, keep the students engaged and occupied for the period is taxing in and of itself. The additional requirement of actually grading nearly 800 students' work makes for full days.
Overall, however, I truly enjoy the teaching. Many of my students are tremendously sweet, and no day is dull. The interaction with the students is very rewarding, as is feeling that I'm actually making a difference in their English speaking skills. The polite wais in the hallways and the ever present shouts of 'Mr. Matt! Hello!' as I move through the school put a smile on my face that seems to remain well after I leave.
It seems that my teaching style has sufficiently impressed one of my Thai co-teachers for her to go looking for outside work for me. She approached me today with what seems to be a contact for daily two-hour private lessons with a man for after school. Apparently, he has recently been promoted to a supervisory position and wishes to improve his English. The stated figure is 500 Baht an hour, of which I believe she would like ten percent.
While part time work is a very common practice here for English teachers, this seems like an exceptional offer. I will hopefully set it up tomorrow so that the 'driver' can start picking me up at 3:30 from school. My Thai Madame at work.
I happened to meet a Thai woman who is an American citizen on Friday when I was returning school from lunch. Vanee (my new friend) has lived in Fresno, California for 27 years where she runs a produce stand, bringing farmers’ bounty to the market. She also grows some of her own fruits and vegetables. She comes back to Thailand occasionally to take care of financial issues and see her family. While her English isn't great, she loves me just for being an American who teaches at her Alma Matta. As such, she insisted on taking me out Saturday with her sister to buy fruit and show me a wholesaler.
From what I can tell, Thais love three things above all else: eating, shopping, and haggling. When these three things are combined, look out. The synergy produces some form of Super Thai, less mortal person than mythical creature. I swear I saw these 5'2'' women grow six inches as they cornered a poor Thai Indian girl over the authenticity of some 'Indian made' shirts. 15 minutes later, Vanee had bought three and the girl had somehow managed not to burst into tears. An hour and a half later, Vanee wanted to go get one more.
When I talk about shopping, you may be picturing some quaint open air, street-side vendor. They do have those, lots of them. But they also have more malls than you can imagine. A few are what would be familiar in the West, perhaps a little bit more packed. The majority, however, basically move those street side vendors indoors. A 15 foot by 15 foot space filled with dress pants and slacks. Next to that is another 15 by 15 stall full of belts, or sheets, or polo shirts, or you name it. This goes on nearly infinitely until they have occupied ten stories of a building taking up a city block. Add thousands of people milling about to your mental image, and you start to get an idea of the experience.
Sometimes the floors are segregated by merchandise: electronics on three, men’s wear on five. This can by no means be thought of as the rule of thumb. Even with the 'streets' being numbered, I still find myself wanting a compass, a canteen, and sometimes a machete (maps are fairly useless in this country and the opinions of at least three independent people are required to verify the direction and distance to a desired destination). The shops give out cards dictating their position as if fourth floor, at the intersection of streets 16 and 12, is an address.
This actually comes in tremendously handy though. Shops must be revisited because apparently hiding among the piles of garments lurk seamstresses. Pick out your pants; get measured for inseam and waist, pay, and come back in a half an hour to pick them up, freshly hemmed. Sure, Brooks Brothers doesn't sell rayon/polyester blends, but these babies don't wrinkle. Also, when I sweat through them, they dry in minutes.
The foray into the land of fruit buying with experienced guides was great too. Not only did I pick up some knowledge about the myriad types of papaya here (don't even get me started on mangoes), I was introduced to a segmented, pitless cousin of the longan, and learned proper etiquette for eating on the go. After being induced to try a fresh olive, I mastered the ever-important phrase 'I don't love it.'
While I am certain I could go on and on, it is getting late. I will endeavor to not let so much time elapse between posts in the future. But for now, goodnight.
P.S.: While I was eating lunch yesterday, the television was on in the teacher's area. The Thai teachers turned up the volume for me so that I could hear Barack Obama's acceptance speech. As I sat listening, my throat got tight and tears welled in my eyes. Pride, vindication, joy, and hope for America are emotions that have lain dormant in me for too long. I wished at that moment that I could share it with my fellow countrymen. A new day is dawning.
10.27.2008
Pom mai mee bahn. Pom sow.
I wrote this on Monday, October 27 at 9:00 P.M. It apparently didn't post. I should have a new post tomorrow night.
So much has happened since my last post, I don't know where to begin. I've finished my training course and said my farewells to many of my fellow trainees. The partings were heartfelt, and I'm certain that I've made friends for life. Fortunately, we did manage to have one final blowout; karaoke included.
Early Saturday morning Erica, three other trainees, and I set off for Bangkok. Erica and I were dropped off at Siam Computer and Language (our new employer) and left to our own devices while the other three were squirreled away to secure housing in north Bangkok. Meeting our contacts, we were given our assignments. Everyone in the office who heard of my placement had nothing but congratulations to offer.
After basic formalities, we split up to find housing in our respective areas. One of those formalities was informing us that while the company would be providing a housing stipend, we would be expected to put our own deposit down. That's three month's rent. That's a lot of Baht. Going separately was a necessity because my school is right in the heart of old Bangkok, but Erica's is near the eastern fringe. This is a very large distance, especially in Bangkok traffic.
Ian, the internal program director for Siam, loaded me in his brand new Honda and we were off. Zipping may not be best way to describe our trek through the streets, but unless you're on a motorbike, not too many people are. Canadian by birth, Ian has lived in Bangkok for eight years. He has taught in several schools around the city, including my current posting. He knows the neighborhood names. He has no sense of direction.
We were attempting to get to the school at which Ian had taught for two years. What could have been a fairly straight shot (by Bangkok standards) turned into a journey of an hour and a half. Ian may not have any idea where he is in relation to other things, or where other things are in relation to each other. He certainly doesn't use vague concepts like north, south, east, or west. He might measure distances using a perhaps unreliable time en route methodology. But Ian is also a tremendously nice guy, and a font of useful knowledge about teaching in Thailand, and Bangkok life in general.
During the six hours that we spent together, most was spent in his car, and nearly all of that was engaging and insightful. For my part in distracting him with a barrage of questions I accept partial responsibility.
We visited my school and having spent time there himself, he was a great asset. He knew the layout, the room numbering, and the faculty. Having him introduce me to the department head and ah-jahn Cindy (my fellow teacher) was a nice feather in my cap. He was also able to fill me in a little more on the students and what to expect as far as behavior and skill level.
As I discovered today, my school has some great qualities. It happens to be an all girl school, which apparently makes a world of difference in classroom behavior, disposition, and general desire to learn. The students are so sweet, at least on the first day when we mostly play games. The faculty seem nice and very willing to help.
For the moment, that will have to suffice. As it is getting late, I'll post more on school thoughts soon. There is much to discuss about beginning my career as a teacher, and I fear that I will go on for quite awhile once I begin.
Another important matter needs attention first. I have no home at the moment. Ian and I left the school after speaking with Cindy. She had a lead on an apartment near the school that we were going to look at today (but that has been postponed until tomorrow... maybe). He wanted to show me a few in his neighborhood so that I could get a feel for them, but the idea was to hold off until I could look at Cindy's lead and then decide.
After another directional misadventure, we did manage to look at two apartments. Things here are very minimalist. A bed, wardrobe, basic desk with moveable stool, and an all in one toilet/hose yourself down room are pretty much the standard. They weren't bad, and tomorrow I will speak with Ian again about commute time and reevaluate it.
In the interim, I am staying on the north side of the city with one of my fellow trainees. It is a wonderful apartment complex. The manager is cutting the teachers a deal, and the apartments include the standard with a small refrigerator, microwave, and television. Also, Internet is included. The complex even has a pool. This would be idilic if it weren't for the hour commute via ferry to work. It truly is a tough decision.
For the time being, I can only count my blessings for having someone whom I've known for such a short time enduring my invasion of her space. I have tried to intrude as little as possible, but still realize that this is inconveniencing her. I hope that I would be so accommodating in her place.
While the tone of this post is fairly light hearted (owing to my first day at school), the emotional roller-coaster of Saturday was not. Arriving in Bangkok on very little sleep to find that not only was my housing not arranged as promised, but that the cost of securing any would deplete my financial resources in their entirety left me shell shocked. I felt adrift in a huge teeming metropolis without an emotional anchor. Here I was to be teaching my first class in less than 48 hours, and I wasn't sure that I would have a place to stay in the next 12.
Dad, thank you for your support when I needed it. You've buoyed me yet again.
So much has happened since my last post, I don't know where to begin. I've finished my training course and said my farewells to many of my fellow trainees. The partings were heartfelt, and I'm certain that I've made friends for life. Fortunately, we did manage to have one final blowout; karaoke included.
Early Saturday morning Erica, three other trainees, and I set off for Bangkok. Erica and I were dropped off at Siam Computer and Language (our new employer) and left to our own devices while the other three were squirreled away to secure housing in north Bangkok. Meeting our contacts, we were given our assignments. Everyone in the office who heard of my placement had nothing but congratulations to offer.
After basic formalities, we split up to find housing in our respective areas. One of those formalities was informing us that while the company would be providing a housing stipend, we would be expected to put our own deposit down. That's three month's rent. That's a lot of Baht. Going separately was a necessity because my school is right in the heart of old Bangkok, but Erica's is near the eastern fringe. This is a very large distance, especially in Bangkok traffic.
Ian, the internal program director for Siam, loaded me in his brand new Honda and we were off. Zipping may not be best way to describe our trek through the streets, but unless you're on a motorbike, not too many people are. Canadian by birth, Ian has lived in Bangkok for eight years. He has taught in several schools around the city, including my current posting. He knows the neighborhood names. He has no sense of direction.
We were attempting to get to the school at which Ian had taught for two years. What could have been a fairly straight shot (by Bangkok standards) turned into a journey of an hour and a half. Ian may not have any idea where he is in relation to other things, or where other things are in relation to each other. He certainly doesn't use vague concepts like north, south, east, or west. He might measure distances using a perhaps unreliable time en route methodology. But Ian is also a tremendously nice guy, and a font of useful knowledge about teaching in Thailand, and Bangkok life in general.
During the six hours that we spent together, most was spent in his car, and nearly all of that was engaging and insightful. For my part in distracting him with a barrage of questions I accept partial responsibility.
We visited my school and having spent time there himself, he was a great asset. He knew the layout, the room numbering, and the faculty. Having him introduce me to the department head and ah-jahn Cindy (my fellow teacher) was a nice feather in my cap. He was also able to fill me in a little more on the students and what to expect as far as behavior and skill level.
As I discovered today, my school has some great qualities. It happens to be an all girl school, which apparently makes a world of difference in classroom behavior, disposition, and general desire to learn. The students are so sweet, at least on the first day when we mostly play games. The faculty seem nice and very willing to help.
For the moment, that will have to suffice. As it is getting late, I'll post more on school thoughts soon. There is much to discuss about beginning my career as a teacher, and I fear that I will go on for quite awhile once I begin.
Another important matter needs attention first. I have no home at the moment. Ian and I left the school after speaking with Cindy. She had a lead on an apartment near the school that we were going to look at today (but that has been postponed until tomorrow... maybe). He wanted to show me a few in his neighborhood so that I could get a feel for them, but the idea was to hold off until I could look at Cindy's lead and then decide.
After another directional misadventure, we did manage to look at two apartments. Things here are very minimalist. A bed, wardrobe, basic desk with moveable stool, and an all in one toilet/hose yourself down room are pretty much the standard. They weren't bad, and tomorrow I will speak with Ian again about commute time and reevaluate it.
In the interim, I am staying on the north side of the city with one of my fellow trainees. It is a wonderful apartment complex. The manager is cutting the teachers a deal, and the apartments include the standard with a small refrigerator, microwave, and television. Also, Internet is included. The complex even has a pool. This would be idilic if it weren't for the hour commute via ferry to work. It truly is a tough decision.
For the time being, I can only count my blessings for having someone whom I've known for such a short time enduring my invasion of her space. I have tried to intrude as little as possible, but still realize that this is inconveniencing her. I hope that I would be so accommodating in her place.
While the tone of this post is fairly light hearted (owing to my first day at school), the emotional roller-coaster of Saturday was not. Arriving in Bangkok on very little sleep to find that not only was my housing not arranged as promised, but that the cost of securing any would deplete my financial resources in their entirety left me shell shocked. I felt adrift in a huge teeming metropolis without an emotional anchor. Here I was to be teaching my first class in less than 48 hours, and I wasn't sure that I would have a place to stay in the next 12.
Dad, thank you for your support when I needed it. You've buoyed me yet again.
10.22.2008
pom mai kow jai
We've been teaching at the Temple for the last three days. My first two days were difficult. My assigned subject matter was very difficult for the monks to relate to the first day, so we had trouble connecting and making a cohesive lesson with vocabulary that they could learn. Yesterday, I had a more relatable topic and I simplified my lesson. I feel that the monks were engaged and able to understand the material. Unfortunately, I lost track of time and ended up finishing early.
Today, however, was great. My material was at the right level, my timing was on, and I engaged the students! We had a blast together. Watching the light of understanding come into their eyes, helping them with there pronunciations and spelling, and seeing them have fun playing games and learning are what I came here for. I feel confident going into tomorrow. My listening lesson should be fun for them, and as long as I have confidence in the plan, I know I can bring infectious energy to the class.
I heard from the recruiter for my company that Erica and I will be going to Bangkok on Friday to talk with them. He said via email that I'm in a secondary level school in Central Bangkok, but beyond that I know no more at this point. I realize that teaching in a public school will be very different that here at the wat, but I'm looking forward to seeing the same students and building rapport.
This week has actually been a tremendous amount of work, and I'm consistently tired by the end of the day. Perhaps exhausted would be a better term. Wake up and swim in the ocean for distance at 6:30. Shower. Grab breakfast. Get on the songthaew to the wat at 8:30. Start teaching or observing. Lunch is at 11:30. Finish at the wat at 3:30. Then it's into town, three to four hours of lesson planning (or more) another swim, and dinner. A spare moment or two for reading and I'm pretty wiped out.
I'm still amazed and annoyed by my classmates’ refusal to give themselves up to Thai culture. A group of us went for dinner tonight and I was ostracized because I wasn't interested in eating in a sterile hotel dining room serving the same food as the open air restaurant next door, but charging considerably more. I opted to go to that next door restaurant and ended up sitting with the owner, talking in broken English and Thai. Whenever communication got beyond us, he called one of his sons over. They spoke English well enough and could at least read the tiny print of my phrasebook that no adult Thais seem to manage. I learned some new phrases, and was corrected in some pronunciation. Needless to say, I also had a delicious meal.
There is still work to be done this evening, and the Internet locale is closing up, so I must depart. I look forward to finding out more about Bangkok, and continuing to explore this wonderful country.
Today, however, was great. My material was at the right level, my timing was on, and I engaged the students! We had a blast together. Watching the light of understanding come into their eyes, helping them with there pronunciations and spelling, and seeing them have fun playing games and learning are what I came here for. I feel confident going into tomorrow. My listening lesson should be fun for them, and as long as I have confidence in the plan, I know I can bring infectious energy to the class.
I heard from the recruiter for my company that Erica and I will be going to Bangkok on Friday to talk with them. He said via email that I'm in a secondary level school in Central Bangkok, but beyond that I know no more at this point. I realize that teaching in a public school will be very different that here at the wat, but I'm looking forward to seeing the same students and building rapport.
This week has actually been a tremendous amount of work, and I'm consistently tired by the end of the day. Perhaps exhausted would be a better term. Wake up and swim in the ocean for distance at 6:30. Shower. Grab breakfast. Get on the songthaew to the wat at 8:30. Start teaching or observing. Lunch is at 11:30. Finish at the wat at 3:30. Then it's into town, three to four hours of lesson planning (or more) another swim, and dinner. A spare moment or two for reading and I'm pretty wiped out.
I'm still amazed and annoyed by my classmates’ refusal to give themselves up to Thai culture. A group of us went for dinner tonight and I was ostracized because I wasn't interested in eating in a sterile hotel dining room serving the same food as the open air restaurant next door, but charging considerably more. I opted to go to that next door restaurant and ended up sitting with the owner, talking in broken English and Thai. Whenever communication got beyond us, he called one of his sons over. They spoke English well enough and could at least read the tiny print of my phrasebook that no adult Thais seem to manage. I learned some new phrases, and was corrected in some pronunciation. Needless to say, I also had a delicious meal.
There is still work to be done this evening, and the Internet locale is closing up, so I must depart. I look forward to finding out more about Bangkok, and continuing to explore this wonderful country.
10.19.2008
rot mor-deu-sai!
Have I mentioned lately how much I love this country? Yesterday, we went to a National Park about 60-km inland. What had started as a small contingent grew to be a larger group. While many opted to charter a van from Ban Phe, a few hearty souls including myself rented motorbikes from a shop down the beach. For the cost of 200 Baht, you can be given a motorbike for 24 hours. No identification or insurance required. Security deposit? Nope. It cost a mere 70 Baht to fill the tank.
The drive to the park was beautiful and took about an hour. Seeing the country this way is definitely the way to go. The ease of getting around on them makes me understand why they are the vehicles of choice for the Thais. Plus, they’re pretty fun to drive.
The park was also an amazing experience. It is built around a hike up a large hill showcasing seven waterfalls. At various places along the way, you can swim or play in the waterfalls. The clear, crisp water was sublime after hiking up the trail in the tropical heat. Stopping periodically to refresh ourselves, we managed to make it all the way to the top. This was no small feat, as the trail becomes much more intensely overgrown and difficult to navigate as it progresses. The seventh waterfall was certainly worth the effort, however. Pictures can’t do it justice.
We returned to the hotel, but having the motorbikes, we decided to use them to their fullest. Four of us mounted our two bikes and traveled into Rayong. Driving around, we came upon some sort of major event. A stage had been erected and there appeared to be some sort of concert going on, attended by a throng of Thais seated at round tables. We pulled in and watched a speaker take the stage. Immediately we were unsure of whether it was an entertainment event or something political or otherwise. As many of the eyes in the crowd fell on us, we felt rather unsure of whether our presence was welcome or not. The looks were not hostile, but rather, inquisitive. Nonetheless, the feeling of hundreds of pairs of eyes trained on you can be rather disconcerting.
As we observed the singing and dancing routines from the periphery, we were approached by some very nice women who explained that it was a class reunion for a local technical college. We were invited to stay, and after making friends with some very drunk Thai gentlemen, were shown to an open table near the stage and given bottles of Pepsi and ice. Moments later, a parade of waiters came bearing food. Our table was filled to overflowing with whole fried fish, soups, rice, potstickers and fried wontons, and a salad of papaya, fried anchovies, cashews, and pork skin. After gorging ourselves and expressing our gratitude we took our leave from the festivities and finally returned to our hotel.
The test Friday was very difficult for me, and I was relieved to learn that I passed. While my score is not exactly something to brag about, my greater fear had been that I might not pass and would have to retake it. With that behind me, I can focus on the teaching that will begin tomorrow. My basic lesson plan is done, but I must draw some picture cards today and rehearse so that my timing is what it should be. Tomorrow’s teaching has me a little worried, but also excited. The monks are very nice, and most speak English rather well or at least at a rudimentary level. As long as I am prepared, it should go smoothly.
On a sour note, my longtime friend and traveling companion, Erica, and I have had a falling out. Much of the blame, unfortunately, rests with me. I am not certain what will become of it, but it does cast a dark cloud over this experience. I will try my best to resolve it and remain friends, but I can only go so far in that before she must meet me. For my part, I will try to remain optimistic and positive.
The drive to the park was beautiful and took about an hour. Seeing the country this way is definitely the way to go. The ease of getting around on them makes me understand why they are the vehicles of choice for the Thais. Plus, they’re pretty fun to drive.
The park was also an amazing experience. It is built around a hike up a large hill showcasing seven waterfalls. At various places along the way, you can swim or play in the waterfalls. The clear, crisp water was sublime after hiking up the trail in the tropical heat. Stopping periodically to refresh ourselves, we managed to make it all the way to the top. This was no small feat, as the trail becomes much more intensely overgrown and difficult to navigate as it progresses. The seventh waterfall was certainly worth the effort, however. Pictures can’t do it justice.
We returned to the hotel, but having the motorbikes, we decided to use them to their fullest. Four of us mounted our two bikes and traveled into Rayong. Driving around, we came upon some sort of major event. A stage had been erected and there appeared to be some sort of concert going on, attended by a throng of Thais seated at round tables. We pulled in and watched a speaker take the stage. Immediately we were unsure of whether it was an entertainment event or something political or otherwise. As many of the eyes in the crowd fell on us, we felt rather unsure of whether our presence was welcome or not. The looks were not hostile, but rather, inquisitive. Nonetheless, the feeling of hundreds of pairs of eyes trained on you can be rather disconcerting.
As we observed the singing and dancing routines from the periphery, we were approached by some very nice women who explained that it was a class reunion for a local technical college. We were invited to stay, and after making friends with some very drunk Thai gentlemen, were shown to an open table near the stage and given bottles of Pepsi and ice. Moments later, a parade of waiters came bearing food. Our table was filled to overflowing with whole fried fish, soups, rice, potstickers and fried wontons, and a salad of papaya, fried anchovies, cashews, and pork skin. After gorging ourselves and expressing our gratitude we took our leave from the festivities and finally returned to our hotel.
The test Friday was very difficult for me, and I was relieved to learn that I passed. While my score is not exactly something to brag about, my greater fear had been that I might not pass and would have to retake it. With that behind me, I can focus on the teaching that will begin tomorrow. My basic lesson plan is done, but I must draw some picture cards today and rehearse so that my timing is what it should be. Tomorrow’s teaching has me a little worried, but also excited. The monks are very nice, and most speak English rather well or at least at a rudimentary level. As long as I am prepared, it should go smoothly.
On a sour note, my longtime friend and traveling companion, Erica, and I have had a falling out. Much of the blame, unfortunately, rests with me. I am not certain what will become of it, but it does cast a dark cloud over this experience. I will try my best to resolve it and remain friends, but I can only go so far in that before she must meet me. For my part, I will try to remain optimistic and positive.
10.16.2008
Bangkok, pom tee nee mah
Soon, Bangkok will be my new home. I ultimately agreed to go work for Siam Computer and Language. In the end, there was too much uncertainty about other placements. The high likelihood that I would be teaching a large range of ages, seeing each class only once a week, seemed just too overwhelming for me at this point. I am afraid that without guidance my first foray into international teaching could sour me on the whole thing. With the experience and support that Siam seems to offer, I should be better equipped to tackle something of that magnitude in the future.
While the prospect of returning to a major metropolis is not in and of itself cause for jubilation, Bangkok does offer many positives. The disparity between the reality of the opportunities and the fantasies of mine before I got here proved to be the largest hurdle to overcome in making my decision. What I came to realize was that I am not passing up the opportunity to explore rural Thailand, but rather better preparing myself for it. Viewing the possibilities of exploring the wonders of Thai life within the city in a positive light has helped immensely. What appeared to be a negative now seems rife with possibilities.
There are still many things to figure out now that this decision has been made. My acceptance email arrived today, but I still do not know which school I will be teaching in, or for that matter, what ages. A handful of schools were looking for teachers like me, but the company has not yet placed me. All on the list, however, have at least three experienced foreign teachers like myself in place already. They are all teaching positions for a maximum of two grade levels, and most appear to be in the range of 12-16 years old. While I would have preferred a slightly younger set of students, I am tremendously excited. The schools are located within the city, but are within quite different areas.
I look forward to hearing more from my new employers. I hope to soon learn which school I will be in so that I can begin the process of finding housing and learning about my new neighborhood. I have a tremendous amount of anxious energy. Sometimes the reality of these new experiences comes upon me in waves. These decisions can feel at times surreal, and waypoints such as this at once ground me in the present and urge me forward.
Tomorrow we will be taking a large, comprehensive grammar and phonology exam. The stress has been slowly ratcheting up among the group since our return from Ko Samet. I haven’t studied like this in quite a while, and it has never been easy for me. Topics that I am interested in I acquire as if by mutual attraction. Applying myself to learning in a regimented, theoretical way makes a sieve of my mind, with holes that are too big. Procrastination, inattention, and frustration seem to walk hand in hand with the structure of formal education for me.
There is a light at the end of the tunnel, though. Next week we begin our practical teaching. Each day we will teach a forty-minute lesson to some of the monks and observe four of our classmates. The topics are assigned, as is the basic structure, but we are free to approach them as we see fit. This is what I have looking forward to since we arrived at school for the first day. While I am certainly nervous about the aspect of standing in front of a room full of Thai children, looking at their expectant faces, I know that the mistakes that I will make can easily be corrected and that I can ultimately teach them.
Before I face that challenge though, we have a weekend to enjoy. A small contingent of us will be renting motorbikes on Saturday and traveling to a nearby National Park. It will be a day trip, starting early. I believe the park is about seventy square kilometers and offers the possibility of glimpsing elephants, monkeys, and other wildlife. The group consists of some of my closest friends here, and between the motorbike adventure and natural beauty I’m sure that we’ll have a memorable time.
These thoughts of fun to come may bring a smile to my face, but they don’t get me any closer to memorizing how phonemes are produced. For that, I must return to studying. Drop me a line if you get a chance. While I may not have time to respond, I always appreciate hearing from those interested.
While the prospect of returning to a major metropolis is not in and of itself cause for jubilation, Bangkok does offer many positives. The disparity between the reality of the opportunities and the fantasies of mine before I got here proved to be the largest hurdle to overcome in making my decision. What I came to realize was that I am not passing up the opportunity to explore rural Thailand, but rather better preparing myself for it. Viewing the possibilities of exploring the wonders of Thai life within the city in a positive light has helped immensely. What appeared to be a negative now seems rife with possibilities.
There are still many things to figure out now that this decision has been made. My acceptance email arrived today, but I still do not know which school I will be teaching in, or for that matter, what ages. A handful of schools were looking for teachers like me, but the company has not yet placed me. All on the list, however, have at least three experienced foreign teachers like myself in place already. They are all teaching positions for a maximum of two grade levels, and most appear to be in the range of 12-16 years old. While I would have preferred a slightly younger set of students, I am tremendously excited. The schools are located within the city, but are within quite different areas.
I look forward to hearing more from my new employers. I hope to soon learn which school I will be in so that I can begin the process of finding housing and learning about my new neighborhood. I have a tremendous amount of anxious energy. Sometimes the reality of these new experiences comes upon me in waves. These decisions can feel at times surreal, and waypoints such as this at once ground me in the present and urge me forward.
Tomorrow we will be taking a large, comprehensive grammar and phonology exam. The stress has been slowly ratcheting up among the group since our return from Ko Samet. I haven’t studied like this in quite a while, and it has never been easy for me. Topics that I am interested in I acquire as if by mutual attraction. Applying myself to learning in a regimented, theoretical way makes a sieve of my mind, with holes that are too big. Procrastination, inattention, and frustration seem to walk hand in hand with the structure of formal education for me.
There is a light at the end of the tunnel, though. Next week we begin our practical teaching. Each day we will teach a forty-minute lesson to some of the monks and observe four of our classmates. The topics are assigned, as is the basic structure, but we are free to approach them as we see fit. This is what I have looking forward to since we arrived at school for the first day. While I am certainly nervous about the aspect of standing in front of a room full of Thai children, looking at their expectant faces, I know that the mistakes that I will make can easily be corrected and that I can ultimately teach them.
Before I face that challenge though, we have a weekend to enjoy. A small contingent of us will be renting motorbikes on Saturday and traveling to a nearby National Park. It will be a day trip, starting early. I believe the park is about seventy square kilometers and offers the possibility of glimpsing elephants, monkeys, and other wildlife. The group consists of some of my closest friends here, and between the motorbike adventure and natural beauty I’m sure that we’ll have a memorable time.
These thoughts of fun to come may bring a smile to my face, but they don’t get me any closer to memorizing how phonemes are produced. For that, I must return to studying. Drop me a line if you get a chance. While I may not have time to respond, I always appreciate hearing from those interested.
10.12.2008
Pom pa-yah-yahm ow ngahn.
A company came to the school Friday and spoke with Erica, a couple of other girls in the training program and me about work in Bangkok. They were very informative and I must admit that it was quite the pitch. They find teachers for 32 public schools and operate 15 of their own private language schools. All in all, it sounds like a really good offer. The class sizes are large (about 45), and I would be teaching 20 classes a week. But on the positive side, I would see my students more than once a week and they offer a lot of resources to grow and be a better teacher. Also, I would be with more experienced teachers. To grow and feel supported, I'm not sure that I can expect better. I'm not certain how I feel about living in Bangkok, however. The decision to leave Chicago and come here was partially motivated by a desire to take time away from a major city. The hustle, the noise, and the dirt take their toll. It would provide exposure to more varied food, and the opportunity to spend time in some of the world class hotel restaurants. On the other hand, I was looking forward to being around more traditional Thai culture. Compounding the stress is the uncertainty of what other offers will be extended to me.
I am finding the grammar and phonetics section of our training rather difficult. Our Nepalese instructor can be hard to understand and he can't change his approach to accommodate what is obviously not working for many in the class. It doesn't help that he has a tremendously dry disposition and does not engage us. Flashcards and personal excersises should work for the phonetics, but I'm going to have to get help with grammar from my classmates.
We visited the island of Ko Sumet this weekend. It was truly amazing. The most beautiful place I've ever been. When you see the white sand beaches with crystal clear water and a fishing boat moored offshore in pictures it doesn't do it justice at all. We rented bungalows right by the beach for 300 baht, sharing them between us. Having met some Thais at a bar, they invited me to come with them to a beachfront dance/party that went on until 4 a.m. I had such an incredible time interacting with the young people at the party. Dancing, drinking, and laughing is a great way to spend time in a beautiful country with beautiful people. One of my new friends and I are going to have dinner on Tuesday night in Ban Phe. My first true eating experience with a Thai, and I anxiously anticipate it.
I was a little frustrated with some of my classmates and their lack of desire to interact beyond a cursory hello with the natives. I would have liked to have shared the experience of 300 Thais dancing on the beach to a dj, but they couldn't be enticed to mingle. It leaves me questioning the motives of people coming to teach. Is it merely a way to go somewhere tropical without any actual desire to be teachers? I think for many that is an afterthought, or at worst, an unpleasant obligation. I will try to view it in a more positive light, but it upset me at the time.
The internet stand is closing, and I must sign off for the night. More to come.
I am finding the grammar and phonetics section of our training rather difficult. Our Nepalese instructor can be hard to understand and he can't change his approach to accommodate what is obviously not working for many in the class. It doesn't help that he has a tremendously dry disposition and does not engage us. Flashcards and personal excersises should work for the phonetics, but I'm going to have to get help with grammar from my classmates.
We visited the island of Ko Sumet this weekend. It was truly amazing. The most beautiful place I've ever been. When you see the white sand beaches with crystal clear water and a fishing boat moored offshore in pictures it doesn't do it justice at all. We rented bungalows right by the beach for 300 baht, sharing them between us. Having met some Thais at a bar, they invited me to come with them to a beachfront dance/party that went on until 4 a.m. I had such an incredible time interacting with the young people at the party. Dancing, drinking, and laughing is a great way to spend time in a beautiful country with beautiful people. One of my new friends and I are going to have dinner on Tuesday night in Ban Phe. My first true eating experience with a Thai, and I anxiously anticipate it.
I was a little frustrated with some of my classmates and their lack of desire to interact beyond a cursory hello with the natives. I would have liked to have shared the experience of 300 Thais dancing on the beach to a dj, but they couldn't be enticed to mingle. It leaves me questioning the motives of people coming to teach. Is it merely a way to go somewhere tropical without any actual desire to be teachers? I think for many that is an afterthought, or at worst, an unpleasant obligation. I will try to view it in a more positive light, but it upset me at the time.
The internet stand is closing, and I must sign off for the night. More to come.
10.08.2008
Pom pa-yah-yahm ree-an poot Thai
Three days into my teacher training, and I’m enjoying myself overall. The program is very disorganized. Misinformation and an absence of information are the norm. I’m trying to stay positive about the whole thing, but I will admit to moments of frustration. Our hotel is also a major disappointment. Erica and I are sharing a room that could certainly be in better repair. The smell of mildew is the most glaring deficiency, but the water-damaged closet that only has one functional door is also noteworthy. Making up for this, however, is the fact that I must merely cross the street to reach the ocean.
Aside from the problems with the program, everything else is wonderful. The people in the program with me are a lot of fun. Predominantly American with a spattering of Canadians and a lone Brit, they come from all walks of life. I’d guess the average age to be 24, but many have traveled to some pretty amazing places. Time in Morocco, Bulgaria, South Africa, and backpacking through Europe seem to be fairly standard.
We’ve already: had a midnight skinny dipping session in the Bay of Thailand, sang karaoke until the Japanese tourists left (not easy to outdo them), and smoked a hookah on the beach with natives while they grilled us fresh caught crabs. The area our hotel is in must have been quite the tourist attraction at one point, but it seems to have gone bust. Now it’s rather low key with a couple of very good restaurants (using the term very loosely) nearby.
They take us into town every couple of days, and I think that we’re going to have a group trip to Ko Sumet this weekend. I’m really excited about seeing the beaches there, and I think that we’ll just rent a bungalow and crash out. I love living by the ocean; I’ve been swimming every morning before class.
The classes are the very definition of tedium. I’m not certain of their practical application when I get posted, but we’ll have to see. At the very least I’ll have a certificate recognized around the world and resources for local placements. We are taking our classes and will be doing our guided teaching at a local Buddhist school. Interacting with the 300 children has been rather amazing. They speak English at varying levels, but many have quite a command of it. They are also quite nice and it is amazing to watch and participate in their rituals and customs. I look forward to actual classroom work with them.
I still haven’t heard where I’ll be posted. In fact, no one in the program has been told anything about it. I hope to find out soon, but as they guarantee placement, I’m not too worried. Not worrying seems to be the general way of life here. Things will happen when they happen and not before.
As there is no Internet connection at the hotel, my connectivity is rather limited. Despite that, I will be checking in every few days, and hope to continue posting occasionally. I’ve added a link to check out pictures, but the connection here is slow to upload so they might not be as up to date as desired. Bear with me as I navigate the intricacies of the blog world and the challenges of technology abroad. Unfortunately, I must retire to the hotel for the evening to do some homework.
Aside from the problems with the program, everything else is wonderful. The people in the program with me are a lot of fun. Predominantly American with a spattering of Canadians and a lone Brit, they come from all walks of life. I’d guess the average age to be 24, but many have traveled to some pretty amazing places. Time in Morocco, Bulgaria, South Africa, and backpacking through Europe seem to be fairly standard.
We’ve already: had a midnight skinny dipping session in the Bay of Thailand, sang karaoke until the Japanese tourists left (not easy to outdo them), and smoked a hookah on the beach with natives while they grilled us fresh caught crabs. The area our hotel is in must have been quite the tourist attraction at one point, but it seems to have gone bust. Now it’s rather low key with a couple of very good restaurants (using the term very loosely) nearby.
They take us into town every couple of days, and I think that we’re going to have a group trip to Ko Sumet this weekend. I’m really excited about seeing the beaches there, and I think that we’ll just rent a bungalow and crash out. I love living by the ocean; I’ve been swimming every morning before class.
The classes are the very definition of tedium. I’m not certain of their practical application when I get posted, but we’ll have to see. At the very least I’ll have a certificate recognized around the world and resources for local placements. We are taking our classes and will be doing our guided teaching at a local Buddhist school. Interacting with the 300 children has been rather amazing. They speak English at varying levels, but many have quite a command of it. They are also quite nice and it is amazing to watch and participate in their rituals and customs. I look forward to actual classroom work with them.
I still haven’t heard where I’ll be posted. In fact, no one in the program has been told anything about it. I hope to find out soon, but as they guarantee placement, I’m not too worried. Not worrying seems to be the general way of life here. Things will happen when they happen and not before.
As there is no Internet connection at the hotel, my connectivity is rather limited. Despite that, I will be checking in every few days, and hope to continue posting occasionally. I’ve added a link to check out pictures, but the connection here is slow to upload so they might not be as up to date as desired. Bear with me as I navigate the intricacies of the blog world and the challenges of technology abroad. Unfortunately, I must retire to the hotel for the evening to do some homework.
10.05.2008
Ban Phe
Today we leave Bangkok to go to our training course. While I have truly enjoyed exploring the wonders of this modern metropolis growing from a city rich with history, I am anxious to see a more traditional Thai way of life. This will bring me one step closer to the total immersion that I was looking for.
On our final day here, we toured the canals on the east side of the river, getting caught in a deluge along the way. I knew it rained here. I am familiar with the term monsoon. This was the first time that I have seen just how mighty a tropical storm can be, however. It has rained sporadically every day that we have been here, but nothing even came close to what we experienced today. The temperature dropped and the sky clouded, but that is nothing new. But this time what began as a mild rain quickly turned into something that made the river violent and literally stopped the city. No one ventured from cover. While the long-tail boat had a small roof to protect us from the stinging drops from above, it did nothing to fend off the sideways gusts and resultant splash as the drops hit the water around us. We were soaked to the bone in a matter of minutes. For perhaps an hour and a half, this continued unabated. Then, as quickly as it had come, it was gone, leaving behind a glorious day.
After returning to the hotel to change, we again wandered and shopped. I haggled a vendor down for two more shirts. While I'm certain that I could have gotten a lower price, this is a new practice for me and I am still fine tuning my approach. Overall, I feel pleased with the negotiations.
In another 'the world is so small' moment, my friend from college who has been living in China for the past 3 years happened to be in Bangkok as part of a vacation. Erica and I met Matt and his girlfriend for drinks and then dinner. Unfortunately, tomorrow is some sort of election, and the sale of alcohol today ceased at 6. Fortunately, Matt has spent a lot of time here and turned me on to some new culinary treats, including a Thai salad of green papaya, fermented baby soft shell crabs, chili, fish sauce, oyster sauce, and lime (offered with the ubiquitous fresh herbs of course). Sitting down to a true feast then followed after a short train ride. Spicy beef salad, glass noodles with prawn, Chinese broccoli, fish stewed in coconut and galangal, and the piece de resistance: a whole steamed snapper with accompaniments.
Not only was it an exceptional evening doing a few of my favorite things, but I got to share it with some of my good friends. Seeing Matt and meeting his girlfriend couldn't have happened at a better time. As someone who has gone through the same type of adjustments, he was full of insights. Victoria, his girlfriend, is from northern China and she brought a different perspective to living in Asia.
And so, I look forward to what Ban Phe brings.More challenges I'm sure. Meeting the cast of characters at TEFL International; instructors and fellow future ESL teachers alike is exctiting. I hope they will forgive my inability to recall names beyond a 2 minute span. The realization that I am truly going to be a teacher is getting to be more difficult to ignore.
On our final day here, we toured the canals on the east side of the river, getting caught in a deluge along the way. I knew it rained here. I am familiar with the term monsoon. This was the first time that I have seen just how mighty a tropical storm can be, however. It has rained sporadically every day that we have been here, but nothing even came close to what we experienced today. The temperature dropped and the sky clouded, but that is nothing new. But this time what began as a mild rain quickly turned into something that made the river violent and literally stopped the city. No one ventured from cover. While the long-tail boat had a small roof to protect us from the stinging drops from above, it did nothing to fend off the sideways gusts and resultant splash as the drops hit the water around us. We were soaked to the bone in a matter of minutes. For perhaps an hour and a half, this continued unabated. Then, as quickly as it had come, it was gone, leaving behind a glorious day.
After returning to the hotel to change, we again wandered and shopped. I haggled a vendor down for two more shirts. While I'm certain that I could have gotten a lower price, this is a new practice for me and I am still fine tuning my approach. Overall, I feel pleased with the negotiations.
In another 'the world is so small' moment, my friend from college who has been living in China for the past 3 years happened to be in Bangkok as part of a vacation. Erica and I met Matt and his girlfriend for drinks and then dinner. Unfortunately, tomorrow is some sort of election, and the sale of alcohol today ceased at 6. Fortunately, Matt has spent a lot of time here and turned me on to some new culinary treats, including a Thai salad of green papaya, fermented baby soft shell crabs, chili, fish sauce, oyster sauce, and lime (offered with the ubiquitous fresh herbs of course). Sitting down to a true feast then followed after a short train ride. Spicy beef salad, glass noodles with prawn, Chinese broccoli, fish stewed in coconut and galangal, and the piece de resistance: a whole steamed snapper with accompaniments.
Not only was it an exceptional evening doing a few of my favorite things, but I got to share it with some of my good friends. Seeing Matt and meeting his girlfriend couldn't have happened at a better time. As someone who has gone through the same type of adjustments, he was full of insights. Victoria, his girlfriend, is from northern China and she brought a different perspective to living in Asia.
And so, I look forward to what Ban Phe brings.More challenges I'm sure. Meeting the cast of characters at TEFL International; instructors and fellow future ESL teachers alike is exctiting. I hope they will forgive my inability to recall names beyond a 2 minute span. The realization that I am truly going to be a teacher is getting to be more difficult to ignore.
10.04.2008
Farang
Being a stranger in a foreign land is affecting me in unexpected ways. There's the frustration of being truly lost. It appears that Bangkok is a dreamland for wandering aimlessly, but a nightmare for moving efficiently to a desired locale. The fatigue can be more acute than previously imaginable, coming from trekking through the unaccustomed heat and humidity as well as the immensity of trying to learn a new language. It is alternately tremendously fun and very disheartening.
While I am getting better and better at communicating in Thai, I find that I hit walls occasionally. I seem to overwhelm my mind with new things and have trouble cataloging and recalling. Phrases run together. Things I've said repeatedly fail to come to my tongue. At one point I was speaking Thai to Japanese tourists before I recognized them. Switching between languages is the hardest part, something I struggle with every time we leave the cocoon of English within the hostel.
Because we have no guide or agenda, we often find ourselves in situations that make me feel like a trespasser, but it seems a personal feeling, not shared by the native populous. There is amazement at wandering purposelessly behind apartments and houses, where peoples' lives spill out; them not giving us a second thought beyond the interest our skin color brings. As we walk through temples away from tourists, we often come across monks and people praying. They seem to be neither surprised by our presence nor offended by the intrusion into their worship.
There's so much that I don't understand here. How the economy can possibly work, the city wide insistence on running virtually the same scams, and how people can come here with a desire to see the sights without absorbing any of the culture are all beyond me at the moment.
Of course we interact with other foreigners occasionally. Some are as I would hope: thoughtful, open, and awed. Too many, however, are obviously here to capture pictures of themselves hastily garbed in native ceremonial attire standing atop some national treasure, moving on as soon as the shutter closes. Bagging monuments with a camera the way 'sportsmen' used to on safari. Americans are certainly not above this, but they are not alone. I've watched Germans, British, Spanish, Japanese, and many others make no attempt to correct a communication breakdown with a simple Thai phrasebook and patience.
While it can be disheartening to feel myself a target I don't blame the Thai people, but rather these interlopers for setting the bar so low in their eyes. I have lost time and Baht to gain experience. Stepping out of the tourist areas, I've seen the living conditions. Hovels with work shirts hung to dry so that they can present themselves at the hotels and massage parlors. In a city of over 10 million, obviously not everyone is serving visitors, but the tourist trade is quite evidently a cornerstone propping up the economy. I endeavor to become wary of the trappings without putting up barriers between myself and the culture at large.
The marked change in facial expression and posture when a Thai greeting is offered as we pass on the sidewalk is deeply gratifying. It's as if I pass some sort of test; this one wants to learn our culture. The more of their language I understand, the more rewarding each interaction is, even the ones that leave both sides laughing at our lack of comprehension.
I've also discovered that even those bent on selling the scam have hearts of gold. When a direct question is asked it is if they are unable to tell a lie. They are fine with omission and preying on ignorance, but an outright lie seems beyond their powers. Someone approaching to sell boat tours or a ride in a longboat to navigate the river, if asked about a specific ferry, will not only direct you, but run alongside offering the encouragement 'quick, quick' as they ensure that you are not stranded.
I look forward to another day of exploration, both without and within.
While I am getting better and better at communicating in Thai, I find that I hit walls occasionally. I seem to overwhelm my mind with new things and have trouble cataloging and recalling. Phrases run together. Things I've said repeatedly fail to come to my tongue. At one point I was speaking Thai to Japanese tourists before I recognized them. Switching between languages is the hardest part, something I struggle with every time we leave the cocoon of English within the hostel.
Because we have no guide or agenda, we often find ourselves in situations that make me feel like a trespasser, but it seems a personal feeling, not shared by the native populous. There is amazement at wandering purposelessly behind apartments and houses, where peoples' lives spill out; them not giving us a second thought beyond the interest our skin color brings. As we walk through temples away from tourists, we often come across monks and people praying. They seem to be neither surprised by our presence nor offended by the intrusion into their worship.
There's so much that I don't understand here. How the economy can possibly work, the city wide insistence on running virtually the same scams, and how people can come here with a desire to see the sights without absorbing any of the culture are all beyond me at the moment.
Of course we interact with other foreigners occasionally. Some are as I would hope: thoughtful, open, and awed. Too many, however, are obviously here to capture pictures of themselves hastily garbed in native ceremonial attire standing atop some national treasure, moving on as soon as the shutter closes. Bagging monuments with a camera the way 'sportsmen' used to on safari. Americans are certainly not above this, but they are not alone. I've watched Germans, British, Spanish, Japanese, and many others make no attempt to correct a communication breakdown with a simple Thai phrasebook and patience.
While it can be disheartening to feel myself a target I don't blame the Thai people, but rather these interlopers for setting the bar so low in their eyes. I have lost time and Baht to gain experience. Stepping out of the tourist areas, I've seen the living conditions. Hovels with work shirts hung to dry so that they can present themselves at the hotels and massage parlors. In a city of over 10 million, obviously not everyone is serving visitors, but the tourist trade is quite evidently a cornerstone propping up the economy. I endeavor to become wary of the trappings without putting up barriers between myself and the culture at large.
The marked change in facial expression and posture when a Thai greeting is offered as we pass on the sidewalk is deeply gratifying. It's as if I pass some sort of test; this one wants to learn our culture. The more of their language I understand, the more rewarding each interaction is, even the ones that leave both sides laughing at our lack of comprehension.
I've also discovered that even those bent on selling the scam have hearts of gold. When a direct question is asked it is if they are unable to tell a lie. They are fine with omission and preying on ignorance, but an outright lie seems beyond their powers. Someone approaching to sell boat tours or a ride in a longboat to navigate the river, if asked about a specific ferry, will not only direct you, but run alongside offering the encouragement 'quick, quick' as they ensure that you are not stranded.
I look forward to another day of exploration, both without and within.
10.02.2008
non mai
Since we can't seem to actually get to sleep at a reasonable hour, we're opting to get up early anyway. After what can only be described as an early morning nap of a few hours, we're off to explore. I'm not so sure that the night market is in the cards for tonight, but the Royal Palace sure is. And in new Thai clothes nonetheless. Gah-faa kor (coffee please)!
Korp Kun Krap
Our attempt to wake up early today was thwarted by blinds and air conditioning. It appears that hostels can just be too nice. Actually I'm going to blame Erica for this. I didn't even hear the alarm, though I'm pretty sure that I wasn't ready to be active before 3.
Despite our late start, we still managed to cram it full. First things first. I have a huge map. Let's say 3 feet squared dedicated to Bangkok. It's detailed. Temples, government building, and places of interest abound. I'm pretty good at navigating by map. What I'm not good at, apparently, is gauging scale. Bangkok is MASSIVE!
The skytram that took us to the Chao Phraya River was modern, clean, cheap and overall very impressive. After getting some of the most delicious juices on the planet (I can't overstate this. Think of Tropical Punch that comes in a can then imagine that it was made from fresh fruit, picked at it's ripest, and juiced moments before.), we hired a longboat to take us up river. Not the cheapest way to go, but quite the experience.
We also had our first truly difficult language barrier experience. Since there was no plan to the day, we merely pointed to where we wanted to be dropped off and decided to explore. Unfortunately, we couldn't figure out where we were. It took 15 minutes and an army of Thai map-readers to discover us again.
Having achieved a modicum of competency in foraging, I moved on to haggling. I managed to procure a few shirts and a new watch. It's certainly not mastery, but I'm optimistic for the future, especially now that I have the essentials covered. Speaking of essentials, I also bought a cell phone so I can communicate via voice while in Thailand. Call me at (66)8-5343-4764, but please bear in mind the time difference.
Kao Sahn road (the center for the backpackers who come through the country) only makes happier with our hostel. We ran into a Canadian girl who had just arrived in the city and helped her find a hostel just off the road. Ours may be slightly more money, but her's couldn't compare. I really didn't care for Kao Sahn road. I'm sure that the backpackers have seen more of the world than I have, but I wonder how that world looks to them. It was a very insular example of Thailand offering what they think these travelers want. Dumbed down food, Western movies and CDs for pennies on the dollar, while cheap nick knacks mix with prostitutes and kitsch bars.
Returning to our home base area, we managed to wander aimlessly, refuel, and scout out the massage parlors. $200 Bhat for an hour foot/leg massage left us both recharged and sedated. Definite plans to return for a full body work-over.
Tomorrow we will visit the more of the 'tourist attractions' before making our way to the east to a night market. It seems that every street offers a world of mystery and enchantment. I must now retire to sleep. Getting on this schedule is proving difficult.
Despite our late start, we still managed to cram it full. First things first. I have a huge map. Let's say 3 feet squared dedicated to Bangkok. It's detailed. Temples, government building, and places of interest abound. I'm pretty good at navigating by map. What I'm not good at, apparently, is gauging scale. Bangkok is MASSIVE!
The skytram that took us to the Chao Phraya River was modern, clean, cheap and overall very impressive. After getting some of the most delicious juices on the planet (I can't overstate this. Think of Tropical Punch that comes in a can then imagine that it was made from fresh fruit, picked at it's ripest, and juiced moments before.), we hired a longboat to take us up river. Not the cheapest way to go, but quite the experience.
We also had our first truly difficult language barrier experience. Since there was no plan to the day, we merely pointed to where we wanted to be dropped off and decided to explore. Unfortunately, we couldn't figure out where we were. It took 15 minutes and an army of Thai map-readers to discover us again.
Having achieved a modicum of competency in foraging, I moved on to haggling. I managed to procure a few shirts and a new watch. It's certainly not mastery, but I'm optimistic for the future, especially now that I have the essentials covered. Speaking of essentials, I also bought a cell phone so I can communicate via voice while in Thailand. Call me at (66)8-5343-4764, but please bear in mind the time difference.
Kao Sahn road (the center for the backpackers who come through the country) only makes happier with our hostel. We ran into a Canadian girl who had just arrived in the city and helped her find a hostel just off the road. Ours may be slightly more money, but her's couldn't compare. I really didn't care for Kao Sahn road. I'm sure that the backpackers have seen more of the world than I have, but I wonder how that world looks to them. It was a very insular example of Thailand offering what they think these travelers want. Dumbed down food, Western movies and CDs for pennies on the dollar, while cheap nick knacks mix with prostitutes and kitsch bars.
Returning to our home base area, we managed to wander aimlessly, refuel, and scout out the massage parlors. $200 Bhat for an hour foot/leg massage left us both recharged and sedated. Definite plans to return for a full body work-over.
Tomorrow we will visit the more of the 'tourist attractions' before making our way to the east to a night market. It seems that every street offers a world of mystery and enchantment. I must now retire to sleep. Getting on this schedule is proving difficult.
10.01.2008
Su-wah dee krap
After 22 hour of travel time, our plane touched down at Bangkok International at 11:30 P.M. local time Tuesday evening. We left O'hare just after 1 PM Monday CST on a 777 with a layover of a couple of hours in Tokyo. Not a bad 12 hour flight, but I must say that the movies available (though we watched a bunch of them) sucked. Anyone seen the new Hulk? Really?
I had expected the Tokyo airport to be a little bit more futuristic I guess. No cyborg security agents. No teleportation devices. Just a succession of more and more complicated plumbing fixtures. I'm pretty sure the bidet had a buff and wax setting, which made me wish I had bowel pressure and a lot more time.
We stopped and had a beer in a bar at the airport and started chatting up the young American next to us. Turns out he's running the new outpost of Restaurant Daniel in Beijing. We even knew some of the same people. What a small world. He gave me his contact info and is going to get back to me on some friends he has here in Bangkok. Also, delicious bowl of Japanese noodles.
When the nice Japanese flight attendant woke me during the flight to Thailand to ask if I wanted food, I was utterly lost. Between the fatigue, disorientation, and accent issues our exchange must have taken two minutes before I managed to tell her that I wasn't hungry. Domo arigato anyway.
Bangkok is truly a beautiful city to drive into, at least at night. The skyline is very modern with multiple color accents and much to catch the eye. At street level, however, you encounter the age and lack of monetary resources. It is evident that new money has come in and literally risen above the ramshackle. Skyscrapers are jammed between apartments arranged piecemeal which sit atop garage door covered shops.
Leaving our hostel (which has me doubting the merits of any Best Western), we ventured into Pat Pong. Here vendors compete with food carts for sidewalk space. The street is filled with taxi cabs, trucks, and Tuk Tuks, while motorbikes weave through it all. Garbage literally piles up all around. Cockroaches scuttle about and packs of dogs languish and prowl.
Despite all of this, the atmosphere is dense with a life affirming energy. Prostitutes entice, cab drivers harangue, and people crowd, but what was conspicuously absent were horns and arguments. My earnest attempts at communicating in Thai are returned with smiles so genuine they warm me to the core. All this on a Wednesday morning after 1 A.M.
While passively appraising, we were actively foraging. Grilled meats on a stick are 5-10 Baht. A bag of fried meat cakes with cucumber slices and sweet/hot sauce around 20 Baht. Fresh mango, guava, and pineapple run from 10-30 Baht, while a hearty bowl of noodles in broth and a plate of chicken with rice can be had for 90 Baht combined. A bag of what looked to be fried silk worms cost me 20 baht and was actually rather disappointing. I shall endeavor to find bugs to love.
The time difference is taking a toll on me. It is after 7 A.M. and I must retire in order to explore tomorrow and try to sync with the schedule here. Tomorrow (or rather today) we will tackle the sky tram and river guides in furthering our exploration. I love it here already.
*Currently the exchange rate is $1 U.S.~32 Baht
I had expected the Tokyo airport to be a little bit more futuristic I guess. No cyborg security agents. No teleportation devices. Just a succession of more and more complicated plumbing fixtures. I'm pretty sure the bidet had a buff and wax setting, which made me wish I had bowel pressure and a lot more time.
We stopped and had a beer in a bar at the airport and started chatting up the young American next to us. Turns out he's running the new outpost of Restaurant Daniel in Beijing. We even knew some of the same people. What a small world. He gave me his contact info and is going to get back to me on some friends he has here in Bangkok. Also, delicious bowl of Japanese noodles.
When the nice Japanese flight attendant woke me during the flight to Thailand to ask if I wanted food, I was utterly lost. Between the fatigue, disorientation, and accent issues our exchange must have taken two minutes before I managed to tell her that I wasn't hungry. Domo arigato anyway.
Bangkok is truly a beautiful city to drive into, at least at night. The skyline is very modern with multiple color accents and much to catch the eye. At street level, however, you encounter the age and lack of monetary resources. It is evident that new money has come in and literally risen above the ramshackle. Skyscrapers are jammed between apartments arranged piecemeal which sit atop garage door covered shops.
Leaving our hostel (which has me doubting the merits of any Best Western), we ventured into Pat Pong. Here vendors compete with food carts for sidewalk space. The street is filled with taxi cabs, trucks, and Tuk Tuks, while motorbikes weave through it all. Garbage literally piles up all around. Cockroaches scuttle about and packs of dogs languish and prowl.
Despite all of this, the atmosphere is dense with a life affirming energy. Prostitutes entice, cab drivers harangue, and people crowd, but what was conspicuously absent were horns and arguments. My earnest attempts at communicating in Thai are returned with smiles so genuine they warm me to the core. All this on a Wednesday morning after 1 A.M.
While passively appraising, we were actively foraging. Grilled meats on a stick are 5-10 Baht. A bag of fried meat cakes with cucumber slices and sweet/hot sauce around 20 Baht. Fresh mango, guava, and pineapple run from 10-30 Baht, while a hearty bowl of noodles in broth and a plate of chicken with rice can be had for 90 Baht combined. A bag of what looked to be fried silk worms cost me 20 baht and was actually rather disappointing. I shall endeavor to find bugs to love.
The time difference is taking a toll on me. It is after 7 A.M. and I must retire in order to explore tomorrow and try to sync with the schedule here. Tomorrow (or rather today) we will tackle the sky tram and river guides in furthering our exploration. I love it here already.
*Currently the exchange rate is $1 U.S.~32 Baht
First Post
I'm switching from travelpod to Blogger to record my travels through Thailand and my experience as an English teacher. Here I will replicate my first post from my travelpod account originally posted September 27:
The annual St. Catherine's Charity Dinner was a smashing success, with more involvement from family and friends than ever. Also, it afforded me the opportunity to work with a young student from the local culinary program. I was overwhelming pleased by the outcome of our combined efforts. And relieved to have it behind me.
Leaving someone that I have become quite attached to has also not been easy. She and I knew the certainty of the seperation, but that somehow did not spare us the malestrom of emotions. Thanks to her insistence upon communication, I leave secure in the knowledge that we lose nothing but have gained a lifelong bond.
I leave the day after tomorrow for Thailand. The last month has been a rather turbulent ride. Leaving Chicago, my home for the last four years, nearly to the day, wasn't easy. There is so much there that I love. Those close to me, the architecture, the pace, the nightlife, the proximity to what feels like everything, and the FOOD. Ah, the food. Bah Le sandwiches, Tank Phu, late night tacos at El Ranchito, mussels and beers at the Hopleaf, Avec, Schwa, Alinea, ethnic cuisine to the pinnacle of fine dining.... the list could go on for quite some time.
Moving 'home' to my Dad's house has left me feeling displaced, off center. With no space that is truly mine, I have been in limbo. Alternating periods of isolation and intense contact. Unemployed but decidedly moving forward; at a pause between chapters in my life.
Reconnecting with a past that I walked away from years ago. A group of friends so caring that I was welcomed back with open arms. Laughter and tears on both sides wiped away the shame that had overshadowed any thoughts of reconciliation until now. I was also afforded the opportunity to spend time the family of one of my closest friends. Meeting her daughter and spending time within their bubble has been a joy.The annual St. Catherine's Charity Dinner was a smashing success, with more involvement from family and friends than ever. Also, it afforded me the opportunity to work with a young student from the local culinary program. I was overwhelming pleased by the outcome of our combined efforts. And relieved to have it behind me.
Leaving someone that I have become quite attached to has also not been easy. She and I knew the certainty of the seperation, but that somehow did not spare us the malestrom of emotions. Thanks to her insistence upon communication, I leave secure in the knowledge that we lose nothing but have gained a lifelong bond.
As I pack and arrange last minute things, I feel truly prepared. Perhaps there will be things that I wish I had considered, but at my core, I feel ready to undertake this adventure. Provisions aside, I am confident in my own ability to survive and thrive. This will enrich my life and make me grow as a person. Of this I am certain.
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