Pom mai mee bahn. Pom sow.

I wrote this on Monday, October 27 at 9:00 P.M.  It apparently didn't post.  I should have a new post tomorrow night.


So much has happened since my last post, I don't know where to begin.  I've finished my training course and said my farewells to many of my fellow trainees.  The partings were heartfelt, and I'm certain that I've made friends for life.  Fortunately, we did manage to have one final blowout; karaoke included.
Early Saturday morning Erica, three other trainees, and I set off for Bangkok.  Erica and I were dropped off at Siam Computer and Language (our new employer) and left to our own devices while the other three were squirreled away to secure housing in north Bangkok.  Meeting our contacts, we were given our assignments.  Everyone in the office who heard of my placement had nothing but congratulations to offer.
After basic formalities, we split up to find housing in our respective areas.  One of those formalities was informing us that while the company would be providing a housing stipend, we would be expected to put our own deposit down.  That's three month's rent.  That's a lot of Baht.  Going separately was a necessity because my school is right in the heart of old Bangkok, but Erica's is near the eastern fringe.  This is a very large distance, especially in Bangkok traffic.
Ian, the internal program director for Siam, loaded me in his brand new Honda and we were off.  Zipping may not be best way to describe our trek through the streets, but unless you're on a motorbike, not too many people are.  Canadian by birth, Ian has lived in Bangkok for eight years.  He has taught in several schools around the city, including my current posting.  He knows the neighborhood names.  He has no sense of direction.
We were attempting to get to the school at which Ian had taught for two years.  What could have been a fairly straight shot (by Bangkok standards) turned into a journey of an hour and a half. Ian may not have any idea where he is in relation to other things, or where other things are in relation to each other.  He certainly doesn't use vague concepts like north, south, east, or west.  He might measure distances using a perhaps unreliable time en route methodology.  But Ian is also a tremendously nice guy, and a font of useful knowledge about teaching in Thailand, and Bangkok life in general.
During the six hours that we spent together, most was spent in his car, and nearly all of that was engaging and insightful.  For my part in distracting him with a barrage of questions I accept partial responsibility.
We visited my school and having spent time there himself, he was a great asset.  He knew the layout, the room numbering, and the faculty.  Having him introduce me to the department head and ah-jahn Cindy (my fellow teacher) was a nice feather in my cap.  He was also able to fill me in a little more on the students and what to expect as far as behavior and skill level.
As I discovered today, my school has some great qualities.  It happens to be an all girl school, which apparently makes a world of difference in classroom behavior, disposition, and general desire to learn.  The students are so sweet, at least on the first day when we mostly play games.  The faculty seem nice and very willing to help.
For the moment, that will have to suffice.  As it is getting late, I'll post more on school thoughts soon.  There is much to discuss about beginning my career as a teacher, and I fear that I will go on for quite awhile once I begin.
Another important matter needs attention first.  I have no home at the moment.  Ian and I left the school after speaking with Cindy.  She had a lead on an apartment near the school that we were going to look at today (but that has been postponed until tomorrow... maybe).   He wanted to show me a few in his neighborhood so that I could get a feel for them, but the idea was to hold off until I could look at Cindy's lead and then decide.
After another directional misadventure, we did manage to look at two apartments.  Things here are very minimalist.  A bed, wardrobe, basic desk with moveable stool, and an all in one toilet/hose yourself down room are pretty much the standard.  They weren't bad, and tomorrow I will speak with Ian again about commute time and reevaluate it.
In the interim, I am staying on the north side of the city with one of my fellow trainees.  It is a wonderful apartment complex.  The manager is cutting the teachers a deal, and the apartments include the standard with a small refrigerator, microwave, and television.  Also, Internet is included.  The complex even has a pool.  This would be idilic if it weren't for the hour commute via ferry to work.  It truly is a tough decision.
For the time being, I can only count my blessings for having someone whom I've known for such a short time enduring my invasion of her space.  I have tried to intrude as little as possible, but still realize that this is inconveniencing her.  I hope that I would be so accommodating in her place.
While the tone of this post is fairly light hearted (owing to my first day at school), the emotional roller-coaster of Saturday was not.  Arriving in Bangkok on very little sleep to find that not only was my housing not arranged as promised, but that the cost of securing any would deplete my financial resources in their entirety left me shell shocked.  I felt adrift in a huge teeming metropolis without an emotional anchor.  Here I was to be teaching my first class in less than 48 hours, and I wasn't sure that I would have a place to stay in the next 12.
Dad, thank you for your support when I needed it.  You've buoyed me yet again.

pom mai kow jai

We've been teaching at the Temple for the last three days.  My first two days were difficult.  My assigned subject matter was very difficult for the monks to relate to the first day, so we had trouble connecting and making a cohesive lesson with vocabulary that they could learn.  Yesterday, I had a more relatable topic and I simplified my lesson.  I feel that the monks were engaged and able to understand the material.  Unfortunately, I lost track of time and ended up finishing early.

Today, however, was great.  My material was at the right level, my timing was on, and I engaged the students!  We had a blast together.  Watching the light of understanding come into their eyes, helping them with there pronunciations and spelling, and seeing them have fun playing games and learning are what I came here for.  I feel confident going into tomorrow.  My listening lesson should be fun for them, and as long as I have confidence in the plan, I know I can bring infectious energy to the class.

I heard from the recruiter for my company that Erica and I will be going to Bangkok on Friday to talk with them.  He said via email that I'm in a secondary level school in Central Bangkok, but beyond that I know no more at this point.  I realize that teaching in a public school will be very different that here at the wat, but I'm looking forward to seeing the same students and building rapport.

This week has actually been a tremendous amount of work, and I'm consistently tired by the end of the day.  Perhaps exhausted would be a better term.  Wake up and swim in the ocean for distance at 6:30.  Shower.  Grab breakfast.  Get on the songthaew to the wat at 8:30.  Start teaching or observing.  Lunch is at 11:30.  Finish at the wat at 3:30.  Then it's into town, three to four hours of lesson planning (or more) another swim, and dinner.  A spare moment or two for reading and I'm pretty wiped out.

I'm still amazed and annoyed by my classmates’ refusal to give themselves up to Thai culture.  A group of us went for dinner tonight and I was ostracized because I wasn't interested in eating in a sterile hotel dining room serving the same food as the open air restaurant next door, but charging considerably more.  I opted to go to that next door restaurant and ended up sitting with the owner, talking in broken English and Thai.  Whenever communication got beyond us, he called one of his sons over.  They spoke English well enough and could at least read the tiny print of my phrasebook that no adult Thais seem to manage.  I learned some new phrases, and was corrected in some pronunciation.  Needless to say, I also had a delicious meal.

There is still work to be done this evening, and the Internet locale is closing up, so I must depart.  I look forward to finding out more about Bangkok, and continuing to explore this wonderful country.

rot mor-deu-sai!

Have I mentioned lately how much I love this country?  Yesterday, we went to a National Park about 60-km inland.  What had started as a small contingent grew to be a larger group.  While many opted to charter a van from Ban Phe, a few hearty souls including myself rented motorbikes from a shop down the beach.  For the cost of 200 Baht, you can be given a motorbike for 24 hours.  No identification or insurance required.  Security deposit?  Nope.  It cost a mere 70 Baht to fill the tank.
The drive to the park was beautiful and took about an hour.  Seeing the country this way is definitely the way to go.  The ease of getting around on them makes me understand why they are the vehicles of choice for the Thais.  Plus, they’re pretty fun to drive.
The park was also an amazing experience.  It is built around a hike up a large hill showcasing seven waterfalls.  At various places along the way, you can swim or play in the waterfalls.  The clear, crisp water was sublime after hiking up the trail in the tropical heat.  Stopping periodically to refresh ourselves, we managed to make it all the way to the top.  This was no small feat, as the trail becomes much more intensely overgrown and difficult to navigate as it progresses.  The seventh waterfall was certainly worth the effort, however.  Pictures can’t do it justice.
We returned to the hotel, but having the motorbikes, we decided to use them to their fullest.  Four of us mounted our two bikes and traveled into Rayong.  Driving around, we came upon some sort of major event.  A stage had been erected and there appeared to be some sort of concert going on, attended by a throng of Thais seated at round tables.  We pulled in and watched a speaker take the stage.  Immediately we were unsure of whether it was an entertainment event or something political or otherwise.  As many of the eyes in the crowd fell on us, we felt rather unsure of whether our presence was welcome or not. The looks were not hostile, but rather, inquisitive.  Nonetheless, the feeling of hundreds of pairs of eyes trained on you can be rather disconcerting.
As we observed the singing and dancing routines from the periphery, we were approached by some very nice women who explained that it was a class reunion for a local technical college.  We were invited to stay, and after making friends with some very drunk Thai gentlemen, were shown to an open table near the stage and given bottles of Pepsi and ice.  Moments later, a parade of waiters came bearing food.  Our table was filled to overflowing with whole fried fish, soups, rice, potstickers and fried wontons, and a salad of papaya, fried anchovies, cashews, and pork skin.  After gorging ourselves and expressing our gratitude we took our leave from the festivities and finally returned to our hotel.
The test Friday was very difficult for me, and I was relieved to learn that I passed.  While my score is not exactly something to brag about, my greater fear had been that I might not pass and would have to retake it.  With that behind me, I can focus on the teaching that will begin tomorrow.  My basic lesson plan is done, but I must draw some picture cards today and rehearse so that my timing is what it should be.  Tomorrow’s teaching has me a little worried, but also excited.  The monks are very nice, and most speak English rather well or at least at a rudimentary level.  As long as I am prepared, it should go smoothly.
On a sour note, my longtime friend and traveling companion, Erica, and I have had a falling out.  Much of the blame, unfortunately, rests with me.  I am not certain what will become of it, but it does cast a dark cloud over this experience.  I will try my best to resolve it and remain friends, but I can only go so far in that before she must meet me.  For my part, I will try to remain optimistic and positive.

Bangkok, pom tee nee mah

Soon, Bangkok will be my new home.   I ultimately agreed to go work for Siam Computer and Language.  In the end, there was too much uncertainty about other placements.  The high likelihood that I would be teaching a large range of ages, seeing each class only once a week, seemed just too overwhelming for me at this point.  I am afraid that without guidance my first foray into international teaching could sour me on the whole thing.  With the experience and support that Siam seems to offer, I should be better equipped to tackle something of that magnitude in the future.
While the prospect of returning to a major metropolis is not in and of itself cause for jubilation, Bangkok does offer many positives. The disparity between the reality of the opportunities and the fantasies of mine before I got here proved to be the largest hurdle to overcome in making my decision.  What I came to realize was that I am not passing up the opportunity to explore rural Thailand, but rather better preparing myself for it.  Viewing the possibilities of exploring the wonders of Thai life within the city in a positive light has helped immensely.  What appeared to be a negative now seems rife with possibilities.
There are still many things to figure out now that this decision has been made.  My acceptance email arrived today, but I still do not know which school I will be teaching in, or for that matter, what ages.  A handful of schools were looking for teachers like me, but the company has not yet placed me.  All on the list, however, have at least three experienced foreign teachers like myself in place already.  They are all teaching positions for a maximum of two grade levels, and most appear to be in the range of 12-16 years old.  While I would have preferred a slightly younger set of students, I am tremendously excited.  The schools are located within the city, but are within quite different areas.
I look forward to hearing more from my new employers.  I hope to soon learn which school I will be in so that I can begin the process of finding housing and learning about my new neighborhood.  I have a tremendous amount of anxious energy.  Sometimes the reality of these new experiences comes upon me in waves.  These decisions can feel at times surreal, and waypoints such as this at once ground me in the present and urge me forward.
Tomorrow we will be taking a large, comprehensive grammar and phonology exam.  The stress has been slowly ratcheting up among the group since our return from Ko Samet.  I haven’t studied like this in quite a while, and it has never been easy for me.  Topics that I am interested in I acquire as if by mutual attraction.  Applying myself to learning in a regimented, theoretical way makes a sieve of my mind, with holes that are too big.  Procrastination, inattention, and frustration seem to walk hand in hand with the structure of formal education for me.
There is a light at the end of the tunnel, though.  Next week we begin our practical teaching.  Each day we will teach a forty-minute lesson to some of the monks and observe four of our classmates.  The topics are assigned, as is the basic structure, but we are free to approach them as we see fit.  This is what I have looking forward to since we arrived at school for the first day.  While I am certainly nervous about the aspect of standing in front of a room full of Thai children, looking at their expectant faces, I know that the mistakes that I will make can easily be corrected and that I can ultimately teach them. 
Before I face that challenge though, we have a weekend to enjoy.  A small contingent of us will be renting motorbikes on Saturday and traveling to a nearby National Park.  It will be a day trip, starting early.  I believe the park is about seventy square kilometers and offers the possibility of glimpsing elephants, monkeys, and other wildlife.  The group consists of some of my closest friends here, and between the motorbike adventure and natural beauty I’m sure that we’ll have a memorable time.
These thoughts of fun to come may bring a smile to my face, but they don’t get me any closer to memorizing how phonemes are produced.  For that, I must return to studying.  Drop me a line if you get a chance.  While I may not have time to respond, I always appreciate hearing from those interested.

Pom pa-yah-yahm ow ngahn.

A company came to the school Friday and spoke with Erica, a couple of other girls in the training program and me about work in Bangkok.  They were very informative and I must admit that it was quite the pitch.  They find teachers for 32 public schools and operate 15 of their own private language schools.  All in all, it sounds like a really good offer.  The class sizes are large (about 45), and I would be teaching 20 classes a week.  But on the positive side, I would see my students more than once a week and they offer a lot of resources to grow and be a better teacher.  Also, I would be with more experienced teachers.  To grow and feel supported, I'm not sure that I can expect better.  I'm not certain how I feel about living in Bangkok, however.  The decision to leave Chicago and come here was partially motivated by a desire to take time away from a major city.  The hustle, the noise, and the dirt take their toll.  It would provide exposure to more varied food, and the opportunity to spend time in some of the world class hotel restaurants.  On the other hand, I was looking forward to being around more traditional Thai culture.  Compounding the stress is the uncertainty of what other offers will be extended to me.
I am finding the grammar and phonetics section of our training rather difficult.  Our Nepalese instructor can be hard to understand and he can't change his approach to accommodate what is obviously not working for many in the class.  It doesn't help that he has a tremendously dry disposition and does not engage us.  Flashcards and personal excersises should work for the phonetics, but I'm going to have to get help with grammar from my classmates.
We visited the island of Ko Sumet this weekend.  It was truly amazing.  The most beautiful place I've ever been.  When you see the white sand beaches with crystal clear water and a fishing boat moored offshore in pictures it doesn't do it justice at all.  We rented bungalows right by the beach for 300 baht, sharing them between us.  Having met some Thais at a bar, they invited me to come with them to a beachfront dance/party that went on until 4 a.m.  I had such an incredible time interacting with the young people at the party.  Dancing, drinking, and laughing is a great way to spend time in a beautiful country with beautiful people.  One of my new friends and I are going to have dinner on Tuesday night in Ban Phe.  My first true eating experience with a  Thai, and I anxiously anticipate it.
I was a little frustrated with some of my classmates and their lack of desire to interact beyond a cursory hello with the natives.  I would have liked to have shared the experience of 300 Thais dancing on the beach to a dj, but they couldn't be enticed to mingle.  It leaves me questioning the motives of people coming to teach.  Is it merely a way to go somewhere tropical without any actual desire to be teachers?  I think for many that is an afterthought, or at worst, an unpleasant obligation.  I will try to view it in a more positive light, but it upset me at the time.
The internet stand is closing, and I must sign off for the night.  More to come.

Pom pa-yah-yahm ree-an poot Thai

Three days into my teacher training, and I’m enjoying myself overall.  The program is very disorganized.  Misinformation and an absence of information are the norm.  I’m trying to stay positive about the whole thing, but I will admit to moments of frustration.  Our hotel is also a major disappointment.  Erica and I are sharing a room that could certainly be in better repair.  The smell of mildew is the most glaring deficiency, but the water-damaged closet that only has one functional door is also noteworthy.  Making up for this, however, is the fact that I must merely cross the street to reach the ocean.
Aside from the problems with the program, everything else is wonderful.  The people in the program with me are a lot of fun.  Predominantly American with a spattering of Canadians and a lone Brit, they come from all walks of life.  I’d guess the average age to be 24, but many have traveled to some pretty amazing places.  Time in Morocco, Bulgaria, South Africa, and backpacking through Europe seem to be fairly standard.
We’ve already: had a midnight skinny dipping session in the Bay of Thailand, sang karaoke until the Japanese tourists left (not easy to outdo them), and smoked a hookah on the beach with natives while they grilled us fresh caught crabs.  The area our hotel is in must have been quite the tourist attraction at one point, but it seems to have gone bust.  Now it’s rather low key with a couple of very good restaurants (using the term very loosely) nearby. 
They take us into town every couple of days, and I think that we’re going to have a group trip to Ko Sumet this weekend.  I’m really excited about seeing the beaches there, and I think that we’ll just rent a bungalow and crash out.  I love living by the ocean; I’ve been swimming every morning before class.
The classes are the very definition of tedium.  I’m not certain of their practical application when I get posted, but we’ll have to see.  At the very least I’ll have a certificate recognized around the world and resources for local placements.  We are taking our classes and will be doing our guided teaching at a local Buddhist school.  Interacting with the 300 children has been rather amazing.  They speak English at varying levels, but many have quite a command of it.  They are also quite nice and it is amazing to watch and participate in their rituals and customs.  I look forward to actual classroom work with them.
I still haven’t heard where I’ll be posted.  In fact, no one in the program has been told anything about it.  I hope to find out soon, but as they guarantee placement, I’m not too worried.  Not worrying seems to be the general way of life here.  Things will happen when they happen and not before.
As there is no Internet connection at the hotel, my connectivity is rather limited.  Despite that, I will be checking in every few days, and hope to continue posting occasionally.  I’ve added a link to check out pictures, but the connection here is slow to upload so they might not be as up to date as desired.  Bear with me as I navigate the intricacies of the blog world and the challenges of technology abroad.  Unfortunately, I must retire to the hotel for the evening to do some homework.

Ban Phe

Today we leave Bangkok to go to our training course. While I have truly enjoyed exploring the wonders of this modern metropolis growing from a city rich with history, I am anxious to see a more traditional Thai way of life. This will bring me one step closer to the total immersion that I was looking for.
On our final day here, we toured the canals on the east side of the river, getting caught in a deluge along the way. I knew it rained here. I am familiar with the term monsoon. This was the first time that I have seen just how mighty a tropical storm can be, however. It has rained sporadically every day that we have been here, but nothing even came close to what we experienced today. The temperature dropped and the sky clouded, but that is nothing new. But this time what began as a mild rain quickly turned into something that made the river violent and literally stopped the city. No one ventured from cover. While the long-tail boat had a small roof to protect us from the stinging drops from above, it did nothing to fend off the sideways gusts and resultant splash as the drops hit the water around us. We were soaked to the bone in a matter of minutes. For perhaps an hour and a half, this continued unabated. Then, as quickly as it had come, it was gone, leaving behind a glorious day.
After returning to the hotel to change, we again wandered and shopped. I haggled a vendor down for two more shirts. While I'm certain that I could have gotten a lower price, this is a new practice for me and I am still fine tuning my approach. Overall, I feel pleased with the negotiations.
In another 'the world is so small' moment, my friend from college who has been living in China for the past 3 years happened to be in Bangkok as part of a vacation. Erica and I met Matt and his girlfriend for drinks and then dinner. Unfortunately, tomorrow is some sort of election, and the sale of alcohol today ceased at 6. Fortunately, Matt has spent a lot of time here and turned me on to some new culinary treats, including a Thai salad of green papaya, fermented baby soft shell crabs, chili, fish sauce, oyster sauce, and lime (offered with the ubiquitous fresh herbs of course). Sitting down to a true feast then followed after a short train ride. Spicy beef salad, glass noodles with prawn, Chinese broccoli, fish stewed in coconut and galangal, and the piece de resistance: a whole steamed snapper with accompaniments.
Not only was it an exceptional evening doing a few of my favorite things, but I got to share it with some of my good friends. Seeing Matt and meeting his girlfriend couldn't have happened at a better time. As someone who has gone through the same type of adjustments, he was full of insights.  Victoria, his girlfriend, is from northern China and she brought a different perspective to living in Asia.
And so, I look forward to what Ban Phe brings.More challenges I'm sure. Meeting the cast of characters at TEFL International; instructors and fellow future ESL teachers alike is exctiting. I hope they will forgive my inability to recall names beyond a 2 minute span. The realization that I am truly going to be a teacher is getting to be more difficult to ignore.

Farang

Being a stranger in a foreign land is affecting me in unexpected ways. There's the frustration of being truly lost. It appears that Bangkok is a dreamland for wandering aimlessly, but a nightmare for moving efficiently to a desired locale. The fatigue can be more acute than previously imaginable, coming from trekking through the unaccustomed heat and humidity as well as the immensity of trying to learn a new language. It is alternately tremendously fun and very disheartening.
While I am getting better and better at communicating in Thai, I find that I hit walls occasionally. I seem to overwhelm my mind with new things and have trouble cataloging and recalling. Phrases run together. Things I've said repeatedly fail to come to my tongue. At one point I was speaking Thai to Japanese tourists before I recognized them. Switching between languages is the hardest part, something I struggle with every time we leave the cocoon of English within the hostel.
Because we have no guide or agenda, we often find ourselves in situations that make me feel like a trespasser, but it seems a personal feeling, not shared by the native populous. There is amazement at wandering purposelessly behind apartments and houses, where peoples' lives spill out; them not giving us a second thought beyond the interest our skin color brings. As we walk through temples away from tourists, we often come across monks and people praying. They seem to be neither surprised by our presence nor offended by the intrusion into their worship.
There's so much that I don't understand here. How the economy can possibly work, the city wide insistence on running virtually the same scams, and how people can come here with a desire to see the sights without absorbing any of the culture are all beyond me at the moment.
Of course we interact with other foreigners occasionally. Some are as I would hope: thoughtful, open, and awed. Too many, however, are obviously here to capture pictures of themselves hastily garbed in native ceremonial attire standing atop some national treasure, moving on as soon as the shutter closes. Bagging monuments with a camera the way 'sportsmen' used to on safari. Americans are certainly not above this, but they are not alone. I've watched Germans, British, Spanish, Japanese, and many others make no attempt to correct a communication breakdown with a simple Thai phrasebook and patience.
While it can be disheartening to feel myself a target I don't blame the Thai people, but rather these interlopers for setting the bar so low in their eyes. I have lost time and Baht to gain experience. Stepping out of the tourist areas, I've seen the living conditions. Hovels with work shirts hung to dry so that they can present themselves at the hotels and massage parlors. In a city of over 10 million, obviously not everyone is serving visitors, but the tourist trade is quite evidently a cornerstone propping up the economy. I endeavor to become wary of the trappings without putting up barriers between myself and the culture at large.
The marked change in facial expression and posture when a Thai greeting is offered as we pass on the sidewalk is deeply gratifying. It's as if I pass some sort of test; this one wants to learn our culture. The more of their language I understand, the more rewarding each interaction is, even the ones that leave both sides laughing at our lack of comprehension.
I've also discovered that even those bent on selling the scam have hearts of gold. When a direct question is asked it is if they are unable to tell a lie. They are fine with omission and preying on ignorance, but an outright lie seems beyond their powers. Someone approaching to sell boat tours or a ride in a longboat to navigate the river, if asked about a specific ferry, will not only direct you, but run alongside offering the encouragement 'quick, quick' as they ensure that you are not stranded.
I look forward to another day of exploration, both without and within.

non mai

Since we can't seem to actually get to sleep at a reasonable hour, we're opting to get up early anyway.  After what can only be described as an early morning nap of a few hours, we're off to explore.  I'm not so sure that the night market is in the cards for tonight, but the Royal Palace sure is.  And in new Thai clothes nonetheless.  Gah-faa kor (coffee please)!

Korp Kun Krap

Our attempt to wake up early today was thwarted by blinds and air conditioning.  It appears that hostels can just be too nice.  Actually I'm going to blame Erica for this.  I didn't even hear the alarm, though I'm pretty sure that I wasn't ready to be active before 3.
Despite our late start, we still managed to cram it full.  First things first.  I have a huge map.  Let's say 3 feet squared dedicated to Bangkok.  It's detailed.  Temples, government building, and places of interest abound.  I'm pretty good at navigating by map.  What I'm not good at, apparently, is gauging scale.  Bangkok is MASSIVE!
The skytram that took us to the Chao Phraya River was modern, clean, cheap and overall very impressive.  After getting some of the most delicious juices on the planet (I can't overstate this.  Think of Tropical Punch that comes in a can then imagine that it was made from fresh fruit, picked at it's ripest, and juiced moments before.), we hired a longboat to take us up river.  Not the cheapest way to go, but quite the experience.
We also had our first truly difficult language barrier experience.  Since there was no plan to the day, we merely pointed to where we wanted to be dropped off and decided to explore.  Unfortunately, we couldn't figure out where we were.  It took 15 minutes and an army of Thai map-readers to discover us again.
Having achieved a modicum of competency in foraging, I moved on to haggling.  I managed to procure a few shirts and a new watch.  It's certainly not mastery, but I'm optimistic for the future, especially now that I have the essentials covered.  Speaking of essentials, I also bought a cell phone so I can communicate via voice while in Thailand.  Call me at (66)8-5343-4764, but please bear in mind the time difference.
Kao Sahn road (the center for the backpackers who come through the country) only makes happier with our hostel.  We ran into a Canadian girl who had just arrived in the city and helped her find a hostel just off the road.  Ours may be slightly more money, but her's couldn't compare.  I really didn't care for Kao Sahn road.  I'm sure that the backpackers have seen more of the world than I have, but I wonder how that world looks to them.  It was a very insular example of Thailand offering what they think these travelers want.  Dumbed down food, Western movies and CDs for pennies on the dollar, while cheap nick knacks mix with prostitutes and kitsch bars.
Returning to our home base area, we managed to wander aimlessly, refuel, and scout out the massage parlors.  $200 Bhat for an hour foot/leg massage left us both recharged and sedated.  Definite plans to return for a full body work-over.
Tomorrow we will visit the more of the 'tourist attractions' before making our way to the east to a night market.  It seems that every street offers a world of mystery and enchantment.  I must now retire to sleep.  Getting on this schedule is proving difficult.

Su-wah dee krap

After 22 hour of travel time, our plane touched down at Bangkok International at 11:30 P.M. local time Tuesday evening. We left O'hare just after 1 PM Monday CST on a 777 with a layover of a couple of hours in Tokyo. Not a bad 12 hour flight, but I must say that the movies available (though we watched a bunch of them) sucked. Anyone seen the new Hulk? Really?
I had expected the Tokyo airport to be a little bit more futuristic I guess. No cyborg security agents. No teleportation devices. Just a succession of more and more complicated plumbing fixtures. I'm pretty sure the bidet had a buff and wax setting, which made me wish I had bowel pressure and a lot more time.
We stopped and had a beer in a bar at the airport and started chatting up the young American next to us. Turns out he's running the new outpost of Restaurant Daniel in Beijing. We even knew some of the same people. What a small world. He gave me his contact info and is going to get back to me on some friends he has here in Bangkok. Also, delicious bowl of Japanese noodles.
When the nice Japanese flight attendant woke me during the flight to Thailand to ask if I wanted food, I was utterly lost. Between the fatigue, disorientation, and accent issues our exchange must have taken two minutes before I managed to tell her that I wasn't hungry. Domo arigato anyway.
Bangkok is truly a beautiful city to drive into, at least at night. The skyline is very modern with multiple color accents and much to catch the eye. At street level, however, you encounter the age and lack of monetary resources. It is evident that new money has come in and literally risen above the ramshackle. Skyscrapers are jammed between apartments arranged piecemeal which sit atop garage door covered shops.
Leaving our hostel (which has me doubting the merits of any Best Western), we ventured into Pat Pong. Here vendors compete with food carts for sidewalk space. The street is filled with taxi cabs, trucks, and Tuk Tuks, while motorbikes weave through it all. Garbage literally piles up all around. Cockroaches scuttle about and packs of dogs languish and prowl.
Despite all of this, the atmosphere is dense with a life affirming energy. Prostitutes entice, cab drivers harangue, and people crowd, but what was conspicuously absent were horns and arguments. My earnest attempts at communicating in Thai are returned with smiles so genuine they warm me to the core. All this on a Wednesday morning after 1 A.M.
While passively appraising, we were actively foraging. Grilled meats on a stick are 5-10 Baht. A bag of fried meat cakes with cucumber slices and sweet/hot sauce around 20 Baht. Fresh mango, guava, and pineapple run from 10-30 Baht, while a hearty bowl of noodles in broth and a plate of chicken with rice can be had for 90 Baht combined. A bag of what looked to be fried silk worms cost me 20 baht and was actually rather disappointing. I shall endeavor to find bugs to love.
The time difference is taking a toll on me. It is after 7 A.M. and I must retire in order to explore tomorrow and try to sync with the schedule here. Tomorrow (or rather today) we will tackle the sky tram and river guides in furthering our exploration. I love it here already.


*Currently the exchange rate is $1 U.S.~32 Baht

First Post

I'm switching from travelpod to Blogger to record my travels through Thailand and my experience as an English teacher. Here I will replicate my first post from my travelpod account originally posted September 27:

I leave the day after tomorrow for Thailand. The last month has been a rather turbulent ride. Leaving Chicago, my home for the last four years, nearly to the day, wasn't easy. There is so much there that I love. Those close to me, the architecture, the pace, the nightlife, the proximity to what feels like everything, and the FOOD. Ah, the food. Bah Le sandwiches, Tank Phu, late night tacos at El Ranchito, mussels and beers at the Hopleaf, Avec, Schwa, Alinea, ethnic cuisine to the pinnacle of fine dining.... the list could go on for quite some time.

Moving 'home' to my Dad's house has left me feeling displaced, off center. With no space that is truly mine, I have been in limbo. Alternating periods of isolation and intense contact. Unemployed but decidedly moving forward; at a pause between chapters in my life.

Reconnecting with a past that I walked away from years ago. A group of friends so caring that I was welcomed back with open arms. Laughter and tears on both sides wiped away the shame that had overshadowed any thoughts of reconciliation until now. I was also afforded the opportunity to spend time the family of one of my closest friends. Meeting her daughter and spending time within their bubble has been a joy.
The annual St. Catherine's Charity Dinner was a smashing success, with more involvement from family and friends than ever. Also, it afforded me the opportunity to work with a young student from the local culinary program. I was overwhelming pleased by the outcome of our combined efforts. And relieved to have it behind me.
Leaving someone that I have become quite attached to has also not been easy. She and I knew the certainty of the seperation, but that somehow did not spare us the malestrom of emotions. Thanks to her insistence upon communication, I leave secure in the knowledge that we lose nothing but have gained a lifelong bond.

As I pack and arrange last minute things, I feel truly prepared. Perhaps there will be things that I wish I had considered, but at my core, I feel ready to undertake this adventure. Provisions aside, I am confident in my own ability to survive and thrive. This will enrich my life and make me grow as a person. Of this I am certain.